Robert Brady Museum

The Robert Brady Museum shows the collection of the artist, antiquarian, and decorator from Fort Dodge, Iowa. Ceramics, antique furniture, sculptures, paintings, and tapestries fill the restored colonial mansion, all beautifully arranged in rooms painted with bright colors. Note that the building numbers on this street are out of order. The museum is just across the street from numbers 21 and 121.

Calle Netzahuacóyotl 4, between Hidalgo and Abasolo, Cuernavaca, Phone: (777) 318-8554, Cost: $2, Hours: Tues.-Sun. 10-6

Xochicalco Ruins – Cuernavaca

Xochicalco is a well-preserved example of a fortified political, religious and commercial centre from the troubled period that followed the break-up of the great Mesoamerican states such as Teotihuacan, Monte Albán, Palenque and Tikal.

The high taluds of the pyramid bear relief carvings that depict towns that paid tribute to Xochicalco, as well as several seated figures that look Mayan. It has been speculated that Xochicalco may have had artists from other parts of Mesoamerica.  Other monuments at the site include several other step-pyramid temples, palaces, three ballcourts, sweat-baths, an unusual row of circular altars, and a cave with steps carved down into it. The site also has some free-standing sculptured stelae.  Not as well known as other ruins, it is not unusual for visitors to be part of a small group viewing the site.

When you drive through Xico Viejo, Veracruz, a small town 25 miles from Xalapa, you would swear you had stepped back in time and into an “John Wayne western.  The narrow streets are tough to navigate with horses and burros tied to hitching posts along both sides. The trucks you see are reminiscent of small-town Anywhere, 60 years ago. There are caballeros with cigarettes hanging from their mouths, and a sombrero pulled down so low you can barely see their eyes watching your every move.  You can easily imagine them saying (if they spoke English), “You ain’t from around here, are ya?”

I am the only non-Mexican for miles so the stares and pointing almost becomes a frenzy in this tiny pueblo. Xico is known to have witches at night that chase young lovers. Maybe my wild red hair was thought to belong to a witch that came out a little early.

We were lucky to have a wonderful tour guide, a sister of R2’s amigo.  She was happy to show off the region and we drove to the spectacular, Cascada de Texolo waterfalls, where the 1984 Michael Douglas and Kathleen Turner movie, Romancing the Stone, was filmed.

On route, we navigated winding roads with our windows open to savor the aroma of the coffee beans growing in the region.  Along the way, little children would try to entice us to buy their handmade trinkets, or their homemade coffee liquor, similar to Kuala.

We were impressed at the height and beauty of the waterfalls.  R2 and I were somewhat apprehensive to cross the bridge that would take us to the site.  It had been there since the early 1900s and looked like it had missed the last 50 years of structural maintenance. Fortunately, we decided to throw our fates to the wind, and as a result, hiked around the falls for a few hours.  At one point, we joined the locals and enjoyed splashing around in the cool stream under one of the smaller waterfalls.

There was only one restaurant in the area and you had to ascend even higher to reach this hidden gem.  We all wondered how they managed to supply provisions to the top of the mountain since it was not accessible by a motorized vehicle. The only explanation was burros laden with packs on their backs. We didn’t head to that eatery, though, because our guide had other plans for us.  She recommended a trout farm far up in the mountains that served fresh fish, cooked to your liking.

The wonderful Nissan “ghetto” rental navigated pot holes, boulders and steep cliffs like a trooper.  We followed a 1970s rusted beetle slowly up the mountain not sure we would complete this trek with all our hubcaps. We passed rustic haciendas and rancheros on their horses, but the best thing we passed was a small donkey tied to the fence that pointed us in the right direction.  As if by some mind-force he showed us the way to the farm but not with his eyes, his legs, or even his tail, for that matter.  We will refer to his skills as “Periscope Directions.” His periscope literally stood at full attention, shifted to the left and seemed to say to us, “Continue that way, weary travelers.”  While Chelli didn’t speak any English, we all knew what the donkey was telling us and our stomachs ached with laughter.

We finally reached the trout farm, and my comfort level flew out the window.  The restaurant was a small building with smoke billowing from the kitchen.  It was really for locals who had made the trip, with or without the burrito’s help, but that has never stopped us before.

The trout were crowded in small streams so they were easy pickings for lunch. The only fishermen were two-nine year old boys that were catching the fish with a net, plopping them on a bloodied table and bashing their brains out.  They gutted the fish, threw the innards to the dogs and ran the pieces to their mama in the restaurant.  R2 kept stressing, “Don’t look.” He is a lover of nearly alive sashimi so the fish frenzy didn’t seem to bother him in the least.

As R2 and our guide snacked on fried fish tails and the occasional eyeball, I wondered where the nearest mercado was for a bag of papitas and a cool cervesa. You can take the city slicker outta the city, but you can’t take the city outta this Canadian gal!

Read more about Layna’s world travels at http://laynainasia.blogspot.com

We got a late start from Tulum for our getaway weekend to Uxmal.  The estimated drive time was about 4.5 hours and we were making good time as we passed through Valladolid.  As we started out of Valladolid, the sun had just set on an unseasonably cool day at the end of April on the Yucatan Peninsula.  We had the windows rolled down, and could hear the sounds of Howler monkeys calling out to their friends among the jungle canopy.  What an adventure this was already!

We traveled along for another few hours, had a few near-miss turns, and what began as an exciting adventure at dusk turned into a dark night of two-lane roads and unfamiliar places.  We were close to our destination, but the map I wished I hadn’t forgotten had worked its way up the priority ladder to “critical loss.”

At this point, it was almost midnight, and we decided to give up on finding the hotel near Uxmal where we had reservations.  We had driven through the town of Ticul on the way, and recalled seeing some places to stay there.  So, we drove back, found a place with a pool and free breakfast, and pulled into the driveway.  Imagine our shock in finding out that this was, in fact, the very accomodations we had reserved!!

Valerie, the owner/manager, was standing outside to greet us at “The Pickled Onion,” and we all had a good laugh about the “perdido” (lost) being found.  We had driven by the hotel, at least, twice; it was late and dark; and I had forgotten the map . . . and yet, when all else had failed, I pulled right into the driveway – what can I say?  Valerie had had us set up for a late arrival – but, not for that late!

We settled in for a great night of much needed rest.  The next morning, after finishing a wonderful breakfast, we headed out for a day at the ruins of Uxmal and the Cacoa Museum and Plantation.  Both tours are educational, awe-inspiring and well-worth the trip.  Personally, I found the ruins of Uxmal to be more impressive than Chichen Itza.

At the Cacoa Plantation, we learned a great deal about chocolate – one of my favorite subjects – and gained insight into the daily lives of the average Maya family.  When you visit most ruins, you hear about royalty, the grand ceremonies and the significance of the structures in governing, but seldom does anything you see figure into the life of the average Mayan citizen.  Their connection with the land, and the harmony in which they lived with it, is inspiring.  Their tools, and how they used native plants in their everyday lives, demonstrate their intimacy with and knowledge of the land.

We also learned some really interesting stuff about “Cacoa,” or the source of chocolate. The Cacoa fruit which contains the beans used to make cacoa, was originally discovered in Northern Brazil but migrated north with the spread of the Maya people over 2000 years ago.  It was the Spaniards bringing the beans back to Europe from the Yucatan in the 1500s that gave birth to the chocolate we enjoy today.

The Pickled Onion B and B was another educational, albeit relaxing, comfortable, even sensual experience.  They use the traditional Mayan style cabanas – rectangular with rounded corners and the beautiful, thatched roofs that keep the cabanas cool.  The room we stayed in was the newest, and was nicely furnished with a mini-fridge, coffee-maker and sitting area.  No internet and no TV for the weekend provided a nice change of pace. It’s a very peaceful, quiet spot, and we sat in front of the cabana on several occasions just to listen to the jungle and enjoy the beautiful garden.

We loved the garden and its paths including the small labyrinth maze with a lime tree in the middle.  We had a fantastic dinner on-site in the charmingly quaint restaurant.  The menu had many entrees using local ingredients, and some interesting fusions that were delicious.  Try the meatballs with raisins and fresh mint . . . it’s amazing!

Valerie is a fantastic host, excellent massage therapist and we so enjoyed the time we spent with her.  This is a trip, and accomodations, that we highly recommend. It is a combination of the perfect place to unplug and wind down, coupled with an interesting and unusual take on the Mayan culture!

Check out the short video below to see some of the highlights of the trip.

Parks

Xcaret!!

What’s to do at Xcaret?  Underground Rivers, Beach, Lagoon & pools, Tropical Jungle Trail, Main Plaza, Stained-glass Plaza,  House of Whispers Rotating Scenic Tower, Butterfly Pavilion, Regional Wildlife Breeding Farm, Coral Reef Aquarium, Living Museum of Orchids & Mushroom Farm, Mayan archaeological sites, St. Francis of Assisi Chapel, Hacienda Henequenera,  Mexican Cemetery in the Mayan Village, Vino de Mexico Wine Cellar,  Marine Turtles Area, Fauna of Mexico, Jaguar Island,  Manatee Lagoon, Flamingos, and Spider Monkey Island and MORE!!   Click here for more information.

Chetumal-Puerto Juarez Federal Highway, Km. 282. Solidaridad, Quintana Roo, Mexico.

Customer Service/Sales:  Cancún: 998-251-6560 / Playa del Carmen: 984-147-6560 / México: 01-800-212-8951 / USA-CAN : 1-888-XCARET1   Monday to Sunday from 7:00 AM to 9:00 PM.

Xel-Há !!

What’s to do at Xel-Há ?  Environmental activities, Yoga and Meditation, Sprint Triathlon Xel-Há, traditions such as the Melipona beekeeping, snorkeling, underground river floats, cenote swimming, rock climbing, Trepachanga river crossing (by ropes), Salpichanga river slide, grottoes, Mayan ruins, jungle trails, Chacah’s Garden, Floating Bridge, Bike Races, Xel-Há Nursery, Snail Sanctuary Rosa Xel-Há, and MORE!!

Highway Chetumal-Puerto Juárez, Km. 240 local 1 y 2 módulo B. Xel-Há Tulum, Quintana Roo, México.

Customer Service/Sales: Cancún: 998-251-6560  / Playa del Carmen: 984-147-6560  /  México: 01-800-212-8951   /  USA-CAN: 1-888-XCARET1

Ruins

Coba

Approximately 45 kilometers west of Tulum, and a stone’s throw from Valladolid, Coba is surprisingly accessible, though it appears remote. Its restoration has yet to gather momentum; and so far, the site has simply been cleared to create access.  Among the oldest and largest ancient Mayan lands, Coba emerged as a mighty city-state during the late Classic era, between 600 – 900 AD. Its political hegemony stretched some 50 square kilometers. Coba’s architecture is distinct from its closest neighbors, Chichen Itza and Uxmal, both of which have elaborate facades, rich with geometric patterns. Coba’s temples – tall and bulky – embody the “Peten” style more associated with the distant cities of the south. The theory is that Coba formed an alliance through marriage with Tikal, a powerful conquest state in the Peten Basin area of northern Guatemala, to facilitate trade.

Chac Mool

Within the Sian Kaan Biosphere Reserve, is the seldom seen archaeological site of Chac Mool. Chac Mool is a small, but interesting archaeological site, partly because of its isolation, and partly because of similarities to Chichen Itza and Tulum. Chichen Itza, because of the presence of a Chac Mool shrine room, and like Tulum, because the ruins are also located directly on the Caribbean Sea. Having the freedom to explore this site without the heavy tourist traffic is real treat.

Xel-Ha

The Xel-Ha ruins are part of the Xel-Ha Eco-park, located between Akumal and Tulum. It is a collection of stone buildings right on the highway opposite the entrance to Xel-Ha Lagoon. The Maya had a coastal port at Xel-Ha for maritime trade between the principal towns up and down the coast, and Cozumel. The location of Xel Ha is important, for it was here that pilgrims came from all over Mayan lands for their once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage to the island of Cozumel. “Ixchel,” as it was known then was also the name of the Maya goddess of fertility. On this beautiful island, only accessed by large canoes, Maya men and women performed their ceremonies for abundant fertility.  Entering Xel ha, there are two areas of interest, both built during the Classic period (300 – 900 AD). The first is along the highway, and has buildings of stone lying among large Ceiba trees. The Ceiba tree was the Maya “tree of life” which signified a connection to the world in all four directions (north, south, east and west) and to the heavens (God, space and extra-terrestrials).

Muyil

The Muyil ruins are located 25 kilometers south of the Pueblo of Tulum. The Muyil archaeological site is located on the mainland side of a lagoon in the Sian Ka´an Biosphere. The most prominent building in Muyil is its pyramid. At the pinnacle is a great view of the surrounding jungle and nearby lagoon.  Like many Caribbean archaeological sites, there is evidence of much reverence for the feminine deities. A combination path-boardwalk leads from the ruins through a lush jungle-marsh area to the wide Laguna Muyil. The “Mirador” observation platform gives a spectacular view of the surrounding area. Tours of the lagoons are available by the dock.

Tulum

Perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea, Tulum was a Mayan settlement that flourished from around 1200 AD until the arrival of the Spanish. The Tulum ruins are the third most visited archaeological site in Mexico after Teotihuacan and Chichen Itza.  Known as the “Walled City”, Tulum is thought to have been one of the most important cities of ancient Mayan. By 900 AD, the Mayan civilization was in decline, and the large cities to the south had been abandoned. Tulum was one of the Mayan polities that filled the void. It rose to power because it controlled maritime commerce along east side of the peninsula from Honduras to the Yucatán.

Breaking the tide of the Gulf of Mexico, Campeche (Com pay CHAY) is one of the oldest colonial cities in Yucatán Peninsula, founded in 1540. In golden years, it thrived as the major port; trading timber, dyewood, silver and gold. An elegant city soon emerged behind the harbour, patterned with baroque style townhouses and ornamental plazas. Unfortunately, that news of prosperity swiftly traveled the far seas, capturing the attention of notorious seafarers. For years pirates plundered. Until eventually weary “Campechanos” built a fortress in the early 18th century. Today, only two segments of the once 2.5 km stone wall survive; the rest has been demolished and replaced with modernity.

Inside where the wall once stood, is one of Mexico’s most preserved colonial cities – added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1999. In daylight, appealing pastel-colored houses are a portrait against the turquoise sky; while at night, shades dance between shadows and mellow light. Once an “Achilles’ heel,” Campeche’s sea location is now a strategic advantage. Its breezy streets a refreshing alternative to the swelter of inland Mérida, or Valladolid.

An interesting way to explore Campeche is to walk parallel to the remaining historic wall, near calle 8. Several bastions now house museums and galleries which showcase regional life and culture.  In addition, the surrounding colonial architecture is impressive. “El Museo de la Ciudad,” the city museum, is in the bastion “Baluarte de San Carlos,” near the present state government building. From its roof, there is a decent view to the Gulf.

The principle plaza, boxed between calles 8 and 10, and 55 and 57, is the space to break between exploring. It’s breezy, especially after the hottest hours of the day. And Mexican plazas, you’ll observe, are awash with local life. There may even be a serenade. On the north side is a replica of the colonial administration headquarters. It’s an attractive building – mustard yellow, with arcaded terraces, stately decoration – which now houses a public library; and adjacent to that, “Centro Cultural Casa Número 6,” exhibits items from Campeche’s former high-society. The protagonist of the plaza, however, is the “Catedral de la Concepción Inmaculada,” Campeche’s incandescent cathedral. Its construction began shortly after the conquest, though was not complete until 1705.

To experience from above the wall, visit “Puerta de la Tierra,” the fortress gate at the end of calle 59. From its small stone stairway, you climb to the top and walk the stretch towards to “Baluarte de San Juan,” while overlooking Campeche’s urban sprawl. Inside the small rooms, a few artifacts attempt to convey the life and service of the militaries, though it’s not the most intriguing collection. It’s “Fuerte de San Miguel,” a colonial fort on the edge of the city, which shelters the superior museum. On display are several interesting pieces excavated from nearby archaeological zones, Calakmul and Edzná.

“Camerones al coco,” shrimp covered in coconut is the dish of Campeche, and you’ll find it almost everywhere. La Casa Vieja, overlooking the main plaza, is the restaurant with a view serving-up Yucatecan fare. Or to taste the unusual, grab a tamale – a traditional pre-Colombian corn dish steamed in a banana leaf – with a twist of chocolate from restaurant, Chocol Ha. In this trendy bistro, tucked inside a semi-restored home on calle 59, options range from traditional to European-inspired – all of course, with “cacao”.

Find accommodation in the historic center. Hotel Lopez on calle 12 (between 61 and 63) is a popular business hotel. Rooms are comfortable and reasonably priced at around $500 MXP per night. While, on calle 59, Hacienda Puerta Campeche is upmarket. Its lavish rooms, around $500 USD a night, open onto a luscious courtyard, with an exquisite pool interweaving the colonnades. There’s also a spa, rooftop bar and fine restaurant. Otherwise, the Monkey Hostel on the main plaza is cheap, but has a priceless location.

Most people arrive into Campeche on the 180 highway from Mérida. If you head south, along the Gulf coast, you’ll connect to the states of Tabasco and Chiapas. A 2-3 day stay is sufficient within the city, though if you have more time, explore the archaeological sites Calakmul, Edzná and Becán further inland.

For more information, visit the tourism desk just off the main plaza, on calle 55.

Known as the “Yellow City,” Izamal may be  the oldest colonial settlement in Yucatán state, located only 45 minutes from the capital, Mérida.

It was founded in early 16th century, atop the pre-existing Mayan city of Izamal. As was the strategy of Spanish conquest, temples and buildings were destroyed, and a colonial township constructed from the ruins. Izamal had been an important ceremonial site for the indigenous, so perhaps, exploiting an existing inclination to worship in the area; Franciscan monks bestowed Izamal with a religious distinction. A large monastery was built from the decapitated temple of Ppapp-Hol-Chac. To this day, Izamal remains an important center of Catholic faith. In 1993, it received a visit from Pope John Paul II – an event that exposed Izamal to the international world.

Its reputation as a city ‘almost entirely painted in mustard yellow’ is what compels most visitors to Izamal. Whether it be the entire façade, or a part of a decorative motif, few buildings have not conformed to this unique colour scheme. With the advantage of a well-preserved historic center, it’s refreshing to escape the bustle of Mérida and stroll along its cobbled streets. Incandescent in the afternoon, Izamal is most charming in the evening, when the historic center glows in the streetlight like a 1920s film-set.

Ascending from the main plaza, the stone stairway leads into “Convento de San Antonio de Padua” – among the oldest monasteries in the Americas. Its arcaded walls tower over the plaza. Construction of the monastery began in 1533, supervised by Diego de Landa, the Franciscan monk infamous for his brutality in evangelising the Maya. Still, on the floors under the arcades, it’s possible to see one or two stones embellished with Mayan iconography. Flanking the courtyard is the principle church, “Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal.” Its second floor houses the statue of “Our Lady of Izamal,” Patron Saint of Yucatán.

The green hills beyond are in fact unexcavated ruins. Before the arrival of conquistadors, Izamal was a large and important pre-Colombian city in northern Yucatán – revered as the home of Kinich Kakmó, the sun god, and Itzamná, the creator deity. There are several archaeological sites around the city. But, Kinich-Kakmó on Calle 27, north of the convent, is the most impressive. Visitors can still climb to the top – an increasing rarity for Mayan ruins. From its summit, there is an expansive view of Izamal and beyond.

For a glimpse into contemporary Mexican culture, particularly its art, visit “Centro Cultural y Artesanal” gallery, on the main plaza. It comprises an intriguing collection of folk art from across Mexico. Housed in a restored colonial house, it’s also a pleasure to admire the architecture around the exhibitions. There is a well-stocked gift shop, selling local textiles, handcrafts and jewellery, and even a spa. “El Museo de la Comunidad,” Izamal’s community museum is below the east side of the Convent.

To eat while you’re there, “Kinich” on Calle 27, near the entrance for Kinich-Kakmó, offers tasty Yucatán fare. Its dining area in the leafy courtyard is a pleasant setting for dinner. Also, “Los Portales” on Calle 33, at the corner of the convent, is a good choice. Prices are reasonable (plates average $4USD), and its large windows open to an intriguing view of life on the Plaza.

Most people visit Izamal in a day-trip from either Mérida or Valladolid, though there are several hotels around the city. “San Miguel Arcángel” on Calle 31A is a prime location, offering rooms with balconies overlooking the main plaza. Rates are around $50USD, which includes a continental breakfast. While “Mancan ché” on Calle 22, four blocks from the convent, is a quieter option. However, if you decide not to spend the night, plan to stay until the evening. From 8:30pm, Monday through Saturday, there is a light and sound show in the Convent. Entrance is around $4USD.

There is a regular bus service between Izamal and Mérida, as well as Valladolid and Cancun. The bus station is located on Calle 32, between 31 and 31A behind the Municipal Palace. For more information, visit the tourism office on Calle 30A, between 31 and 31A.

In 1987, UNESCO designated Sian Ka’an a World Heritage site, owing to its critical contribution to regional biodiversity. Indeed, its tranquil waters and coastal dunes have not gone unobserved by species threatened by human activity; the reserve is a final refuge for several marine turtles, as well as the ‘vulnerable’ West Indian manatee.

For the Pre-Colombian Mayan inhabitants, Sian Ka’an was “Where the Sky is Born.” Certainly, its ecology has evolved from spectacular environmental forces, which one could conceive as divine. A unique feature of the landscape is los Petenes:  small islands that grow in the chaos of muddy, brackish water. Los Petenes comprise an unusual community of tropical forest and mangroves, which are nourished by freshwater springs, flowing from the peninsula’s enormous underground river system.

Visitors are also drawn to Sian Ka’an for its Mayan history. Archaeologists have recorded 23 sites, which include ancient Muyil – one of the oldest Mayan cities in Yucatán Peninsula, established as early as 350 BC. Its architecture is the same “Peten” style characteristic of the monumental city of Tikal, in Guatemala.

Several operators offer low-impact tours of the lagoons and wetlands, as well as the ancient culture. And, considering the very few trails cut into the gregarious vegetation, it’s more comfortable and enjoyable to explore the territory as part of an organised group. “Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK)” and “Community Tours Sian Ka’an” are two reputable sustainable-tourism companies, which provide boat trips, kayaking and fishing excursions. Wildlife and bird-watching enthusiasts will particularly delight in a canal tour, which meanders through the flooded passages interweaving the mangroves. With over three hundred recorded species of bird – which are either endemic, or migrate to the reserve for nesting – spotting one or two remarkable species is a forgone conclusion.

Most visitors find it more convenient to experience the Sian Ka’an in a day-trip, since the reserve has restricted accommodation options. However, should you be determined to awake to sunrise over a deserted Caribbean beach or admire the sunset behind uninterrupted lagoons and wetlands, Cesiak’s lodgings are cozy, beachfront ‘tarp-cabins’ at reasonable prices. Its sunset patio, above the restaurant, is a spectacular setting to dine and drink cocktails. Otherwise, the Sian Ka’an is only a few steps from Tulum’s beachfront hotel zone.

There is no public transport into the reserve, so if you’re not visiting as part of a tour, it’s advisable to hire a car from one of the rental offices in Tulum’s town. The road south of the beach-zone accesses the northern areas of the biosphere, heading toward the fishing town, Punta Allen. Highway 307 from Tulum to Chetemal runs parallel to the western border.  It’s worth noting that the gravel roads within the biosphere are typically littered with potholes, especially after rainy season. That said, bouncing beneath the canopy is part of the charm of this natural realm.

More information on operators and tourism in the Sian Ka’an is available from Tulum’s tourism station, located on the junction between 307 and the highway to Cobá.

Almost 80 km south of Mérida, the present-day capital of the Yucatán state, is the ruin of Uxmal (OOSH mal), an influential Mayan metropolis of the late classic period (AD 600 to 900). In its heyday, Uxmal’s influence spread across northern Yucatán and included subjugating the neighboring settlements of Labná and Sayil. Today, it is a well-preserved archeological zone, embodying Mexico’s ancient culture.

Buried between hills of dry deciduous forests, Uxmal testifies to the ingenuity of the Maya people to not only survive, but to thrive in a region prone to drought. Attempting to control their own water supply, particularly during the dry-season, the Mayans engineered large reservoirs, or ‘chultunes,’ sealed with lime mortar, used to collect rainfall. A well-preserved example is located near the entrance of the ruins.

The first structure on site is the staggering “El Adivino”, or Pyramid of the Magician. Measuring around 35 meters in height, it’s among the most imposing relics of ancient Mesoamerica. The temple’s unusual elliptical platforms, constructed from delicately cut stones set into concrete are not only beautiful, but also an excellent example of “Puuc” architectural influence, which swept the region near the end of the late classic era. This technique of molding, as opposed to layering large boulders upon one another, was considered an architectural advancement, enabling the Maya to construct sturdy, more spacious interiors.

The broad cubic portal on the crest of the base is a graphic example of Puuc art. Its walls are intricately sculpted with geometric designs and Chaac masks, which, even after millennia in the erosive climate, remain aesthetic. The façade is particularly impressive, in that it is fashioned into an enormous mask of the rain deity, his gapping mouth framing the entrance. According to the Mayan folktale, “the Dwarf of Uxmal,” El Adivino was raised overnight by a magician dwarf. Born from a gourd and raised by an old sorceress, the he became ruler of Uxmal after defeating the previous potentate in a challenge, which resulted in his death.

At the step of the temple, the “Cuadrángulo de las Monjas,” or the Nunnery, is a compound of four ornate buildings, surrounding a large platform. Archaeologists theorize that it once functioned as a palace complex. Indeed, each structure is so richly decorated with mosaics, latticework and bas-reliefs, that it’s easy to wile away hours in awe of the sculptors’ creative vision. On the western building, there is a splendid incarnation of the feathered serpent, Kukulkan, which interweaves artwork into the top of the façade.

The Maya were dexterous architects that developed sophisticated geometric structural designs that, not only used their environment to advantage, but also incorporated their theism. Across archaeological sites there are examples of constructions interacting with solar and lunar cycles, as well as seasonal patterns. The corners of each structure in the Nunnery align but do not connect, which facilitates the passage of air through the interior.

Just to the south are the majority of the site’s excavated structures, including the most prominent: “Palacio del Gobernador,” or Governor’s Palace. This rectangular building is the prize of Uxmal. It’s separated into three sections by two triangular arches, which once served as passageways. Though the interior has partially collapsed, you can imagine the stateliness it once claimed. At the center of the decorated façade is a sculpture of a prominent figure garbed in a spectacular headdress and positioned on the coiled body of a serpent. It is from this mysterious individual that the structure gets its name.

Admission into Uxmal is $150MXN. This fee will also provide entrance into the light and sound show that begins at 7 pm. It’s in Spanish, though electronic translators can be hired from the admissions office. Surrounding the entrance are a small restaurant, serving traditional Yucatán fare, a bookstore and a souvenir shop. Uxmal can be easily visited as a day trip from Mérida.