Sombreros and tequila may be what first comes to mind when we think of Mexico, but it’s the colorful colonial cities which are the foundation of contemporary Mexican culture and in the highland hub of San Cristóbal de las Casas, you’ll find its beating heart.

Located in the southwestern state of Chiapis, it’s in the central plateau of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas and close to the geographicalcenter of the state.  San Cristóbal sits at 2200 meters elevation, so expect cool nights, particularly from November to April, and rain. Some people experience altitude sickness – tiredness and mild flu-like symptoms at such heights, so it’s is a good idea to plan to spend, at least, four nights so that you’ll have two full days for cruising the city, and another day to visit nearby communities.

Though it’s now peaceful, San Cristóbal’s history is replete with confrontation.  Often manifested as episodes of extreme repression by the colonizers with concomitant resistance by the indigenous natives.  The most recent political storm erupted in January 1994, when the masked members of the Zapatista National Liberation Army (EZLN), a leftist guerrilla movement, stampeded the city and seized control of government buildings. They demanded rights for the indigenous, a battle cry that has resonated since the arrival of the Spanish.  The Mexican Army soon forced them back into the mountains.

The city was founded as state capital in 1528 by Diego de los Mazariegos, following a brutal battle with the dominant Maya group, the Chiapa, who fought with a passion to protect their autonomy.  Its original name was “Villareal de Chiapa de los Españoles,” though it was renamed “San Cristóbal de las Casas,” in honor of Bartolome de las Casas, the first Bishop of Chiapas, who spent 50 years fighting for the rights of the native Maya. As far as the colonial elite of San Cristóbal were concerned, however, the native Maya would receive no rights or even consideration as human beings.  The colonists set to work breaking the spirit of the indigenous natives, enslaving them in a network of plantations known as the encomienda. The Spanish colonists grew rich harvesting wheat and coffee, while the Maya suffered from famine and diseases which decimated their population.  However, by the time of Mexican Independence in 1821, San Cristóbal was no longer a seat of prosperity.  It had been undermined by its highland location, which isolated it as the lowlands grew wealthier from agriculture.  It was replaced by Tuxtla Gutierrez as state capital.  And, it remained in obscurity until the 1970s, when it was discovered by the tourist industry.

While in San Cristóbal, the following are some of the places you do not want to miss visiting:

El Andador : The main thoroughfare, known informally as “El Andador,” cuts through the core of the city, and is the place to start your exploration.  It’s a pedestrian walkway, stretching from the south on “Avenida Miguel Hidalgo,” through the main plaza, and north along “Avenida 20 de Noviembre,” to Santo Domingo church.  It’s flanked with many shops, galleries, restaurants and bars and you’ll likely spend most of a day wandering up and down its ten block length.

El Zócalo: (or, the main plaza) is the pulse of San Cristóbal. By day, it’s humming with workers, vendors and tourists while, at night, it’s the heart of the city’s night life with live bands.  It is particularly picturesque at sunset when the mustard yellow facade of La Catedral de San Cristóbal radiates like a beacon in a sea of mountain peaks.

El Museo Na Bolom: If you only visit one museum, it must be El Museo Na Bolom ($3 US, 10 am – 7 pm daily). Found  33 Avenida Vicente Guerrero, this former home of Danish archaeologist, Frans Blom, and his wife, photographer Gertrude Duby-Blom is an elegant former monastery, complete with stone floors, courtyards and a garden.  The Bloms occupied it from the 1950s to the 1980s. The couple is renowned for their contribution to the study and protection of the Lacandón rainforest in eastern Chiapas, and among the exhibits is a rare collection of photographs taken by Gertrude of the Lacandón Maya, who lived in almost complete isolation until the 1990s.

Amber Museum: ($2 US, 10 am – 2 pm; 4 pm – 7 pm Tuesday to Sunday) four blocks west of El Zócalo, is another point of interest.  It features a small gallery of exquisite amber sculptures.  Chiapas is the only region in Mexico where amber is found.

Templo and Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo de Guzman: Looming above the artisan market north of El Zócalo is possibly one of Mexico’s most splendid churches.  Its baroque details and ornate façade, richly decorated with carvings and columns, create an intriguing contrast with the colorful motifs of indigenous textiles being sold below.  In the former monastery, there is a showroom of Sna Jolobil (9 am – 2 pm; 4 pm – 6 pm Monday to Saturday), a Mayan weavers’ co-operative renowned for its craftsmanship.  Prices range from a few dollars up to a couple of thousand.

TierrAdentro: On “Real de Guadalupe,” this mercado is run by Zapatista affiliates, an obvious favorite of political lefties, and people keen on Che Guevara t-shirts.  It’s in a large indoor courtyard surrounded by stalls selling crafts, memorabilia with the EZLN logo and, if you’re seriously interested, military boots.  It frequently hosts interesting events. The cuisine is Mexican and the dishes tasty and inexpensive.

For a moderately sized city nestled in the mountains of western Mexico, San Cristóbal has a surprisingly eclectic collection of restaurants and bistros.  Cuisine options range from basic Mayan fare to Mexican street food, Argentinean steaks, and even Thai curries.  For a splurge dinner, try El Argentino, on “Guadalupe.”  It’s a steakhouse offering delectable cuts of meats, but at premium prices.

Nightlife is equally diverse. If you’re seeking jazz worthy of New Orleans, you’ll like Dada Club Jazz Bar & Cafe on Avenida Insurgentes, around the corner from the Santo Domingo church.  Each night the stage is rocked by four or five bands.  It’s packed by 11 pm, so arrive early if you want a good spot.  Beer is reasonably priced around $2 USD, and there’s a menu of appetizers and small plate meals.  Alternatively, La Viña de Bacco on Guadalupe is an intimate wine bar where you can unwind and people-watch with a soothing cup of “mold” wine.  Prices start from around $4 USD.

For a place to stay, Hotel Parador Margarita on Avenida Felipe Flores provides good value.  It has large comfortable rooms that are set around a lovely garden.  But, it’s the elegant bathrooms with showers boasting hot water (24/7) and good water pressure that you will appreciate most.  Doubles are $65 USD.

If you’re coming from the west through Tuxtla Gutiérrez, take Federal Highway 190 directly to San Cristóbal.  From Villahermosa in Tabasco, Carreterra Federal 195 will get you there in less than 4 hours. From Palenque, travel south through the mountains on the “Ocosingo-Palenque Highway” (Carreterra Federal 199) to Ocosingo.  At Ocosingo, Highway 199 turns west for 86 kilometers where it ends at Carreterra Federal 190. Turn right (north) at this intersection – San Cristóbal de las Casas is 9 km.  The closest airport is in the state capital, Tuxtla Gutiérrez.

Built in 1517 AD, and located on the southeastern side of the Yucatán Peninsula, Campeche is the capital city of the state of Campeche and an excellent retirement destination for several reasons. The most important are the low cost of living, affordable real estate, high degree of safety and a colorful, colonial heritage.  Home to a large number of Mexico’s indigenous people, Campeche is, for the most part still “off the tourist radar,” therefore more “Mexican” than the many other areas that have made the economic trade-offs necessary to attract the tourist industry.  It’s a UNESCO World Heritage City with a beautiful, well-preserved Spanish colonial center.  And, it lies right on the Gulf of Mexico, where sea breezes cool Campeche’s warm weather.

One of the biggest reasons for choosing Mexico for retirement is the low cost of living.  In Campeche, this is true with charming colonial homes for sale beginning as low as $60,000.   Short and long-term rentals can be found in the $500-$1000 per month range.

Since the tourist industry for Campeche is still seminal, so is the real estate market and you won’t find a large number of on-line resources for rentals and real estate, like you do for other parts of Mexico.  However, there are some vacation rental resources available on the internet, and a limited number of real estate agencies on-line who deal in Campeche properties.

Perhaps, a “scouting” vacation is in order, since most of the long-term rentals are privately-owned homes that are leased directly by the owners.  And don’t forget, if you’re looking to rent long-term in Campeche, that most long-term rentals are unfurnished, because the market has traditionally been ordinary Mexicans, not the expats or snowbirds who typically relocate without furniture.

Since Campeche remains relatively untouched by the tourist industry, expats in Campeche can still enjoy inexpensive seafood and Yucatecan-style dinners out.  And, as in all of Mexico, there are low-cost fresh groceries at the local mercado. The Campeche market, Pedro Sainz de Baranda, is a popular place to shop for original arts and crafts, traditional costumes, and local foodstuffs.  In Centro, there is an arts and crafts market, Tukulná Casa del Pensamiento – the Tukulná House of Thought, which offers another venue in which to purchase arts and crafts from local artisans. Looking for a big box store – Campeche malls provide the answer. You’ll find a wide range of products in department stores and outlets at La Plaza del Mar, Plaza Universidad, and Plaza Girasoles.  For your more mundane shopping lists, Campeche has the requisite one-stop chains like Wal-Mart.

Campeche has two full-service hospitals, Hospital Dr. Manuel Campos and Sanitorio Clinica Campeche, a Red Cross facility (Cruz Roja) and several clinics, Grupo San Miguel, Centro Medico Carmen and Central Quirúrgica Del Carmen.  But, for specialty medical services or surgeries, you may have to go to Merida.

Getting to Campeche is a little more complicated than, say flying into Cozumel, or Cabos San Lucas, since the Campeche airport, Ingeniero Alberto Acuna Ongay (CPE), has flights only into and out of Mexico City.  However, once in Mexico City, you can connect with most of the major airlines and get to anywhere in the world.

Campeche offers a great range of activities. With many venues, Campeche’s cultural centers host events throughout the year – the two biggest being the Festival del Centro Histórico in November and December, and the Festival de Jazz in the Spring.  But, there are also annual festivals for Carnaval, Semana Santa (Easter), All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day (November 1-2), as well as an enthusiastic Christmas celebration. Campeche is home to seven museums including that of the coastal fortifications and citadels left from the days when the real Pirates of the Caribbean plied the ocean between the North and South Americas. The Mayan ruins located in and around Campeche, such as the closest “Edzna,” are not as well-known, or often-visited, as others in the Yucatán Peninsula, but are considered very important sites by archaeologists.

Are you looking for a place that’s not quite 21^st Century?  The beautiful colonial city of Campeche is a quiet, unspoiled, out of the way gem on the coast of the Yucatan that hasn’t yet been “discovered.”  Quick! Get there before the crowd does!!

We got a late start from Tulum for our getaway weekend to Uxmal.  The estimated drive time was about 4.5 hours and we were making good time as we passed through Valladolid.  As we started out of Valladolid, the sun had just set on an unseasonably cool day at the end of April on the Yucatan Peninsula.  We had the windows rolled down, and could hear the sounds of Howler monkeys calling out to their friends among the jungle canopy.  What an adventure this was already!

We traveled along for another few hours, had a few near-miss turns, and what began as an exciting adventure at dusk turned into a dark night of two-lane roads and unfamiliar places.  We were close to our destination, but the map I wished I hadn’t forgotten had worked its way up the priority ladder to “critical loss.”

At this point, it was almost midnight, and we decided to give up on finding the hotel near Uxmal where we had reservations.  We had driven through the town of Ticul on the way, and recalled seeing some places to stay there.  So, we drove back, found a place with a pool and free breakfast, and pulled into the driveway.  Imagine our shock in finding out that this was, in fact, the very accomodations we had reserved!!

Valerie, the owner/manager, was standing outside to greet us at “The Pickled Onion,” and we all had a good laugh about the “perdido” (lost) being found.  We had driven by the hotel, at least, twice; it was late and dark; and I had forgotten the map . . . and yet, when all else had failed, I pulled right into the driveway – what can I say?  Valerie had had us set up for a late arrival – but, not for that late!

We settled in for a great night of much needed rest.  The next morning, after finishing a wonderful breakfast, we headed out for a day at the ruins of Uxmal and the Cacoa Museum and Plantation.  Both tours are educational, awe-inspiring and well-worth the trip.  Personally, I found the ruins of Uxmal to be more impressive than Chichen Itza.

At the Cacoa Plantation, we learned a great deal about chocolate – one of my favorite subjects – and gained insight into the daily lives of the average Maya family.  When you visit most ruins, you hear about royalty, the grand ceremonies and the significance of the structures in governing, but seldom does anything you see figure into the life of the average Mayan citizen.  Their connection with the land, and the harmony in which they lived with it, is inspiring.  Their tools, and how they used native plants in their everyday lives, demonstrate their intimacy with and knowledge of the land.

We also learned some really interesting stuff about “Cacoa,” or the source of chocolate. The Cacoa fruit which contains the beans used to make cacoa, was originally discovered in Northern Brazil but migrated north with the spread of the Maya people over 2000 years ago.  It was the Spaniards bringing the beans back to Europe from the Yucatan in the 1500s that gave birth to the chocolate we enjoy today.

The Pickled Onion B and B was another educational, albeit relaxing, comfortable, even sensual experience.  They use the traditional Mayan style cabanas – rectangular with rounded corners and the beautiful, thatched roofs that keep the cabanas cool.  The room we stayed in was the newest, and was nicely furnished with a mini-fridge, coffee-maker and sitting area.  No internet and no TV for the weekend provided a nice change of pace. It’s a very peaceful, quiet spot, and we sat in front of the cabana on several occasions just to listen to the jungle and enjoy the beautiful garden.

We loved the garden and its paths including the small labyrinth maze with a lime tree in the middle.  We had a fantastic dinner on-site in the charmingly quaint restaurant.  The menu had many entrees using local ingredients, and some interesting fusions that were delicious.  Try the meatballs with raisins and fresh mint . . . it’s amazing!

Valerie is a fantastic host, excellent massage therapist and we so enjoyed the time we spent with her.  This is a trip, and accomodations, that we highly recommend. It is a combination of the perfect place to unplug and wind down, coupled with an interesting and unusual take on the Mayan culture!

Check out the short video below to see some of the highlights of the trip.

Located in the north of the southeastern state of Chiapas, this archeological site is approximately eight kilometers from the modern town of Palenque. If you continue south, the road meanders, chillingly, up the mountain range, which soars to heights of 2,200 meters, and into the cool plateau of Los Altos (the highlands), where you’ll find the cultured colonial city of San Cristóbal de las Casas. To the north are the humid plains of Tabasco and the Gulf of Mexico.

There are several theories as to why the ancient Maya decided to build on such a sodden escarpment, surrounded by steep slopes and sudden drops, (though, the modern-day site is fortunately less hazardous). Archeologist Kirk D. French believes they may have considered it sacred. Woven with streams, springs and spectacular cascades thundering down the mountains, this luscious slice of rainforest manifests the spot of creation described in Popol Vuh, the collection of mytho-historical tales told by the K’iche’ Maya of the Guatemala highlands. Though with such an abundance of water, it’s no myth why this land is fertile. The location also offered Palenque the strategic advantage of defense, at least in theory, since it suffered two devastating attacks from Calakmul in A.D. 599 and 611. Nevertheless, intruders from the south, east and west could easily be seen clambering down the mountains, while panoramic views over the lowlands made it possible to spot those advancing from the north.

Palenque rose to domination in the Late Classic period (A.D. 600 – 800), most notably under the reign of revered ruler, K’inich Janaab’ Pakal (or Pakal the Great), who ascended the throne in A.D. 615 at the tender age of 12 years old. Its ancient name was Lakamha meaning “Big Water,” though it was tagged Palenque by Spanish Franciscan, Pedro Lorenzo de la Nada, who arrived in the region in 1560. Palenque, which is Spanish for “fortification,” was a translation from Otolum, meaning “strong houses,” its contemporary name among the local Maya.

It was Pakal, and later his sons, Kan Balam and Kan Xul who ushered Palenque into pre-eminence. Much of the art and architecture was commissioned during this time. They also secured political power – waging wars and establishing alliances with the mighty cities of Tikal and Yaxchilan to extend Palenque’s territory to the Gulf of Mexico. However, by A.D. 711 cracks slowly began to emerge in Palenque’s supremacy, leading to its shocking slaughter in battle at the hands of rival, Toniná. Its sudden decline, around A.D. 799, is attributed by archeologists to the widespread downfall that swept southern lowlands in the 8th and 9th centuries. It’s believed that the Maya suffered from a combined onslaught of drought, disease and general deterioration in agricultural production. By the time the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, Palenque had been abandoned.

Palenque is not a large site, but its architecture is among the finest of the ancient Mayan civilization.

• The Temple of Inscriptions is the most celebrated structure of Palenque. Measuring 24 meters in height, the once imposing stairway ascends the pyramid, leading to an elegant temple. Its facade is divided into six columns, four of which still display, surprisingly intact, stucco reliefs. Sadly, you cannot climb to the top for a better look, though Palenque’s museum exhibits several superb sculptures. The temple’s name derives from the inscribed tablets decorating its interior. These have been critical to advancing archeological understanding of Palenque’s dynasty, as well as ancient Mayan mythology and ceremony.

In 1949, while examining the temple, Mexican archeologist Alberto Ruz L’Huillier uncovered a hidden stairway leading to the depths of the pyramid. After years of excavation he made arguably the most critical discovery of Maya archeology, he found the sarcophagus of Pakal the Great. It was exquisitely sculpted with symbols and glyphs, which illuminated Mayan beliefs on death and its journey. In the museum, you’ll find a decent replica of this crypt, the jewels and artifacts surrounding Pakal’s body and (a copy) of the jade-mosaic mask which covered his face.

Also facing the plaza is the Palace – an elaborate complex comprising the remains of rooms, patios and underground arcades, as well as a sophisticated drainage system. The latter is one element of the hydrological apparatus developed by the Maya to control their water saturated environment. Large underground aqueducts were also constructed to channel waterways beneath the city.

In the northeast corner of the Palace, the Patio of the Captives houses several intriguing carvings of Palenque’s prisoners, while the Patio of the Warrior Chiefs is where military leaders once assembled to discuss matters of security. Finally, the large tower in the center, which is unique among Mayan architecture, may have functioned as an astronomical observation center.

The Crosses Group is just over the bridge. These were constructed under the rule of Kan Balam. The Temple of the Cross is the largest of the three temples, and though it’s fairly eroded, a significant proportion of its intricately designed roof-comb remains. On the east is the Temple of the Foliated Cross, and opposite that is the Temple of the Sun.

North of the Palace, beyond the Ball Court, is the North Group. Most of these temples are badly weathered, though the Temple of the Count was once the residence of Jean-Frédérick Waldeck in the 19th century. In this section there is also a statue of Tláloc, a deity of Teotihuacán, an ancient holy city of Mesoamerica now in ruins, near Mexico City.

Finally, the Bats Group, possibly a noble residence, and the Queen’s Bath, a picturesque waterfall and pool, are northeast of the Ball Court.

Part of Palenque’s appeal is the surrounding jungle, which is rich with exotic plants and wildlife. It’s not uncommon to sight, or at least to hear howler monkey, especially in the early morning and late afternoon. However, Palenque’s rainforest-like habitat also means rain and humidity. Wear comfortable, sturdy walking shoes and bring something waterproof for cover. Dry season is from November to April, and the rains fall between May and October.

Entry fee is $5 USD and Palenque is open from 8 am to 5 pm, Monday to Sunday. Last entry is at 4:30 pm. The small, but worthwhile museum is open 9 am to 4:30 pm, Tuesday to Sunday. (Note that it’s closed on Monday). The ticket into the archeolgical zone includes access into the museum, so don’t ditch those stubs. If you decide to visit the museum after touring Palenque, exit from the rear of the site, which is just a short distance from the museum. From there, you can catch a combi back into town, or if you arrived as part of an organized tour, you’ll need to return to the main entrance.

Guided tours around the ruins are not obligatory, as Palenque is well-explained in English and Spanish, both on-site and in the museum. However, for those seeking to enhance their experience, guides are often knowledgable about ancient and contemporary Mayan culture, not to mention that the Chiapanecans (pronounced – chia-pa-nai-kaans) are a charismatic people. I recommend hiring an official guide (easily found hovering around the main entrance), who charge approximately $85 USD for a two-hour tour (for up to seven people) in English.

The archeological zone is located within Palenque National Park, so you’ll also be required to pay a $2 USD admission fee at the park’s entrance near the museum. Palenque is a popular site with a lot on show, so arrive early to beat the crowds.

How to get there:

Because Palenque is relatively remote, most visitors incorporate it into a multi-day stay in Chiapas, or as an excursion from Tabasco or the Yucatán Peninsula. Other nearby attractions include the cascades, Agua Azul and Misol-Há; archeological site, Toniná and colonial city, San Crisótbal de las Casas. To enter Palenque from Campeche or Tobasco, you’ll need to connect from  highway 186 onto the 307, or if you’re coming from San Cristóbal or Tuxtla Gutiérrez, you’ll come up highway 199. There are several accommodation options in the rather un-alluring modern town of Palenque, though most people prefer to stay in the rustic zone of El Panchán.

Parks

Xcaret!!

What’s to do at Xcaret?  Underground Rivers, Beach, Lagoon & pools, Tropical Jungle Trail, Main Plaza, Stained-glass Plaza,  House of Whispers Rotating Scenic Tower, Butterfly Pavilion, Regional Wildlife Breeding Farm, Coral Reef Aquarium, Living Museum of Orchids & Mushroom Farm, Mayan archaeological sites, St. Francis of Assisi Chapel, Hacienda Henequenera,  Mexican Cemetery in the Mayan Village, Vino de Mexico Wine Cellar,  Marine Turtles Area, Fauna of Mexico, Jaguar Island,  Manatee Lagoon, Flamingos, and Spider Monkey Island and MORE!!   Click here for more information.

Chetumal-Puerto Juarez Federal Highway, Km. 282. Solidaridad, Quintana Roo, Mexico.

Customer Service/Sales:  Cancún: 998-251-6560 / Playa del Carmen: 984-147-6560 / México: 01-800-212-8951 / USA-CAN : 1-888-XCARET1   Monday to Sunday from 7:00 AM to 9:00 PM.

Xel-Há !!

What’s to do at Xel-Há ?  Environmental activities, Yoga and Meditation, Sprint Triathlon Xel-Há, traditions such as the Melipona beekeeping, snorkeling, underground river floats, cenote swimming, rock climbing, Trepachanga river crossing (by ropes), Salpichanga river slide, grottoes, Mayan ruins, jungle trails, Chacah’s Garden, Floating Bridge, Bike Races, Xel-Há Nursery, Snail Sanctuary Rosa Xel-Há, and MORE!!

Highway Chetumal-Puerto Juárez, Km. 240 local 1 y 2 módulo B. Xel-Há Tulum, Quintana Roo, México.

Customer Service/Sales: Cancún: 998-251-6560  / Playa del Carmen: 984-147-6560  /  México: 01-800-212-8951   /  USA-CAN: 1-888-XCARET1

Ruins

Coba

Approximately 45 kilometers west of Tulum, and a stone’s throw from Valladolid, Coba is surprisingly accessible, though it appears remote. Its restoration has yet to gather momentum; and so far, the site has simply been cleared to create access.  Among the oldest and largest ancient Mayan lands, Coba emerged as a mighty city-state during the late Classic era, between 600 – 900 AD. Its political hegemony stretched some 50 square kilometers. Coba’s architecture is distinct from its closest neighbors, Chichen Itza and Uxmal, both of which have elaborate facades, rich with geometric patterns. Coba’s temples – tall and bulky – embody the “Peten” style more associated with the distant cities of the south. The theory is that Coba formed an alliance through marriage with Tikal, a powerful conquest state in the Peten Basin area of northern Guatemala, to facilitate trade.

Chac Mool

Within the Sian Kaan Biosphere Reserve, is the seldom seen archaeological site of Chac Mool. Chac Mool is a small, but interesting archaeological site, partly because of its isolation, and partly because of similarities to Chichen Itza and Tulum. Chichen Itza, because of the presence of a Chac Mool shrine room, and like Tulum, because the ruins are also located directly on the Caribbean Sea. Having the freedom to explore this site without the heavy tourist traffic is real treat.

Xel-Ha

The Xel-Ha ruins are part of the Xel-Ha Eco-park, located between Akumal and Tulum. It is a collection of stone buildings right on the highway opposite the entrance to Xel-Ha Lagoon. The Maya had a coastal port at Xel-Ha for maritime trade between the principal towns up and down the coast, and Cozumel. The location of Xel Ha is important, for it was here that pilgrims came from all over Mayan lands for their once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage to the island of Cozumel. “Ixchel,” as it was known then was also the name of the Maya goddess of fertility. On this beautiful island, only accessed by large canoes, Maya men and women performed their ceremonies for abundant fertility.  Entering Xel ha, there are two areas of interest, both built during the Classic period (300 – 900 AD). The first is along the highway, and has buildings of stone lying among large Ceiba trees. The Ceiba tree was the Maya “tree of life” which signified a connection to the world in all four directions (north, south, east and west) and to the heavens (God, space and extra-terrestrials).

Muyil

The Muyil ruins are located 25 kilometers south of the Pueblo of Tulum. The Muyil archaeological site is located on the mainland side of a lagoon in the Sian Ka´an Biosphere. The most prominent building in Muyil is its pyramid. At the pinnacle is a great view of the surrounding jungle and nearby lagoon.  Like many Caribbean archaeological sites, there is evidence of much reverence for the feminine deities. A combination path-boardwalk leads from the ruins through a lush jungle-marsh area to the wide Laguna Muyil. The “Mirador” observation platform gives a spectacular view of the surrounding area. Tours of the lagoons are available by the dock.

Tulum

Perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea, Tulum was a Mayan settlement that flourished from around 1200 AD until the arrival of the Spanish. The Tulum ruins are the third most visited archaeological site in Mexico after Teotihuacan and Chichen Itza.  Known as the “Walled City”, Tulum is thought to have been one of the most important cities of ancient Mayan. By 900 AD, the Mayan civilization was in decline, and the large cities to the south had been abandoned. Tulum was one of the Mayan polities that filled the void. It rose to power because it controlled maritime commerce along east side of the peninsula from Honduras to the Yucatán.

Eventually her time arrived. Released from the London School of Economics with a BSc in Sociology, she flung on her backpack and zipped across Eastern Europe and parts of Africa, finally arriving on the shores of Latin America in 2008. When the dust settled, her trail of breadcrumbs leading home had disappeared, and she has been eating tacos and trampling over ancient ruins in Mexico ever since.

At the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula on the “Flamingo Coast” is a string of small fishing communities.  Beginning at Chuburna and running east on Carreterra 27 for about 50 kilometers to Telchac Puerto, these villages vary in size and modernity.  Progreso, largest of them, has a population of a little over 37,000 and is the state’s main port. It hosts cruise ships twice a week at the “longest pier in the world” and has a burgeoning community of local artistsans, specialty shops and trendy restaurants lining the mile-long malecon. However, the overall ambience remains that of an quiet, country town.

To the west are Chelem and Chuburna, which have pretty much remained fishing villages, albeit ones with gringos in them.  Immediately to the east is Chicxulub (cheek shoo loob) Puerto, another fishing village, but one with it’s own pier (and sight of the geographical anomaly, the Chicxulub Crater believed to have been caused by a meteor hitting the earth).  There is no stopping point between Progreso and Chicxulub – they form a single entity, unless you happen to know that one starts and the other stops at the Oxxo on Calle 27.

Beyond Chicxulub, comes a string of essentially “beach house” communities, all the way to Telchac Puerto.  In the Uaymitun (why me toon), San Benito and San Bruno areas and on into Telchac Puerto, the beach houses of wealthier people from other parts of Mexico (primarily Merida) line up between the highway and the ocean like soldiers ready for drill.  The original villages are still there, but they are dwarfed into insignificance by the parade of summer homes and condos.  These homes are, for the most part, large and modern and can be had relatively cheaply with one exception – the families that own them like to use them for the months of July and August when the heat and humidity run them out of Merida. It is possible to rent them in July and August, too, but the monthly rent is exorbitant at two-three times the normal monthly rate.

The eco-tourism trade is building in the Progreso Corridor, and there are several eco-parks in the area.  Rio Largatos and Alacranes Reef being two of the larger ones, but there are small flamingo sanctuaries that dot the highway in both directions.  The Celestun Biosphere Reserve takes up much of the western part of the state that runs about half-way down the western side of the peninsula. There are also many Mayan ruins and cenotes within “day trip” distance.

Beach houses are plentiful and always looking for renters and can be had from $550 to $1500 per month (except for July and August); however, they all have the “summer” drawback of being used by their owners, or with rent that expands exponentially with the heat.  Rents, off the beach, run from $350 per month up.  The local mercado in Progreso is large and provides many options for fresh produce, meat, fish, fresh-squeezed juice, clothes and lunch counters.  And, when the cruise ships are in, the popular Artisan Bazaar is open with a cornucopia of products made locally.  In fact, the city is building another area for a second artist’s market now.

There are a several small department stores in Centro, along with banks and the San Francisco grocery store.  Walmart has a large subsidiary store at the crossroads on the southside called Bodega Aurrera where you can buy food, household goods, toys, TVs – all the things you expect to get from a Walmart.  However, since this is a poorer area, the quality of the products sold is not high – for the quality stuff, you’ll need a trip to Merida. But, you can count on a trip to Merida once or twice a month anyway, where your shopping options are virtually unlimited.

Progreso has the emergency service of the Mexican Red Cross, one public Health Center, Centro de Salud, and the Centro Médico Americano, a private institution and Enfermería Naval (which does accept civilians with emergency medical situations). All facilities provide medical services 24/7.  There is also a clinic for those insured by IMSS and ISSSTE.  In addition, there are many doctors, dentists, opticians and pharmacies in the Progreso area, and more hospitals, doctors and dentists, etc. in nearby Merida.

There is an airport in Merida, too. However, the Merida Airport flights are limited and only go to Houston and Los Angeles.  For the full-service airport in Cancun, you can opt to take the bus (a four to five hour ride), or drive three hours to Cancun International rather than pay the high cost of the hour’s flight from Merida to Cancun (which rivals the cost of the international flights in and out of Cancun).

Looking for “low-key” on the beach.  Look no further than the Progreso Corridor.

Places To Live & Visit in the Yucatan Peninsula

Unique among the mix of peoples who have become Mexico, are the Yucatecans. Once an independent country, by mutual agreement, Yucatan became part of Mexico in 1821, went independent again in 1823, and finally rejoined Mexico for good in 1825. However, the defining observation about this blend of Mayan, Spanish, Caribbean, French and Middle Eastern (yes, Middle Eastern!) cultures is still “Yucatecans first, Mexicans second!”

In addition to the well-known Riviera Maya on the eastern side of the Yucatan Peninsula, there are the states of Yucatan and Campeche on the northern and western sides. In state of Yucatan, Merida, the capital and financial and cultural center, claims a large, active ex-pat community while the beaches of the Gulf are preferred by a large number of “snowbirds” that join the fishing communities in the Progreso Corridor from November to April every year.

You can find almost any eco-environment you like in the state of Yucatan, except mountains (the Puuc Hills in the southern part of the state do not qualify).  It is home to the Gulf Coast, hundreds of cenotes, Mayan ruins – including the most famous Chichen Itza and an extraordinary, fascinating culture and people.

Campeche

Average Lifestyle Rating: C+ (range D+ to B+) Built in 1517 AD, and located on the southeastern side of the Yucatán Peninsula, Campeche is the capital city of the state of Campeche and an excellent retirement destination for several reasons. The most important are the low cost of living, affordable real estate, high degree of safety and a […]

Places To Visit In Yucatan

Cenotes In the Yucatan, there are over 2,400 cenotes that have actually been studied and registered.  Here are some of the most popular: Ik-Kil
 – Located less than 2 miles from Chichén Itzá. Called the “Sacred Blue Cenote,” it is a perfectly round well-type cenote with magnificent hanging vines and waterfalls. This is an ideal […]

Merida – The White City

The White City is Beautiful Culture and Architectural History Average Lifestyle rating: B- (range D- to A+) Merida is, not only the capital of the state of Yucatan, it is the financial and cultural center.  It got its nickname, “The White City,” in its early history because most of its buildings were white and the customary clothing worn by […]

The Progreso Corridor

Average Lifestyle rating: C (range from D- to A-) At the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula on the “Flamingo Coast” is a string of small fishing communities.  Beginning at Chuburna and running east on Carreterra 27 for about 50 kilometers to Telchac Puerto, these villages vary in size and modernity.  Progreso, largest of them, has a […]

Visit Campeche

Breaking the tide of the Gulf of Mexico, Campeche (Com pay CHAY) is one of the oldest colonial cities in Yucatán Peninsula, founded in 1540. In golden years, it thrived as the major port; trading timber, dyewood, silver and gold. An elegant city soon emerged behind the harbour, patterned with baroque style townhouses and ornamental […]

Izamal

Known as the “Yellow City,” Izamal may be  the oldest colonial settlement in Yucatán state, located only 45 minutes from the capital, Mérida. It was founded in early 16th century, atop the pre-existing Mayan city of Izamal. As was the strategy of Spanish conquest, temples and buildings were destroyed, and a colonial township constructed from […]

Uxmal

Almost 80 km south of Mérida, the present-day capital of the Yucatán state, is the ruin of Uxmal (OOSH mal), an influential Mayan metropolis of the late classic period (AD 600 to 900). In its heyday, Uxmal’s influence spread across northern Yucatán and included subjugating the neighboring settlements of Labná and Sayil. Today, it is […]

Approximately 45 kilometers west of Tulum, and a stone’s throw from Valladolid, Coba is surprisingly accessible, though it appears remote. Its restoration has yet to gather momentum; and so far, the site has simply been cleared to create access. This is fortunate as the exuberant vegetation still surrounding barely excavated structures offers ample opportunity to spot wildlife.

Among the oldest and largest ancient Mayan lands, Coba emerged as a mighty city-state during the late Classic era, between 600 – 900 AD. Its political hegemony stretched some 50 square kilometers.

Trade is believed to have been Coba’s main activity, owing to its strategic position en route from the inland to the coast, as well as its abundant water supply which facilitated urban expansion, and made the city an attractive stop-over for traveling merchants.

The first westerner to come exploring was Mayanist Teobert Maler in 1891. As his small entourage searched for ruins, hacking through the thicket, they stumbled across a raised limestone passageway, which he identified as “five to six meters wide, and lined on both sides with great dressed stones.” This sacbé (pronounced saq-bay), or “white road” connected to an expansive pre-Colombian road-system, which interwove Coba, connecting it with other centers. Archeologists theorize that its purpose was probably ceremonial, used by the processions of nobles and priests in their commute to other cities.

Coba’s architecture is distinct from its closest neighbors, Chichen Itza and Uxmal, both of which have elaborate facades, rich with geometric patterns. Coba’s temples – tall and bulky – embody the “Peten” style more associated with the distant cities of the south. The theory is that Coba formed an alliance through marriage with Tikal, a powerful conquest state in the Peten Basin area of northern Guatemala, to facilitate trade. The new wives most probably bought fresh cultural ideas, which are manifested in the architectural design.

• Nohoch Mul (pronounced no-hooch-muul) is Coba’s main attraction, situated in “Grupo Nohoch Mul,” on the far edge of the site. Measuring approximately 42 meters in height, it is the tallest pyramid in northern Yucatán, and luckily, visitors are still permitted to climb its 120 steps. On top, there is a small temple sheltering a slightly eroded relief of a “diving god” thought to be associated with Venus. The real reward, however, is its panoramic view of the jungle.
• Close to the entrance, La Iglesia, found in “Grupo Cobá,” is another attractive temple. It is the second tallest on-site. Also, within this group are two ball courts, both with well-preserved features.
• Head past the ball courts towards “Grupo Macanxoc,” where you’ll find stelae reliefs of females standing on the heads of subjects in an expression of domination. Sadly, these are badly eroded. Though, archeologists believe that these images may represent the female rulers who arrived from Tikal.

Coba is scattered across the forest, so expect sizable distances between ruins. Wear comfortable walking shoes, especially if you intend to
climb Nohoch Mul, and carry repellent. The advantage of trekking between attractions is that you’re surrounded by wonderful exotic trees and plants peppered with wildlife, so have your camera handy. Or, you can rent a bicycle or rickshaw-style taxi near the entrance, or the Ball court.

Entrance costs $4 US and the site is open from 8 am to 5 pm, Monday to Sunday. Arrive early, to avoid the heat and humidity, and expect to spend from two to three hours exploring.

How to get there: You can get to Coba easily by jumping on an ADO bus from either Tulum or Valladolid. Alternatively, there are several tour operators in the region that offer excursions. These are more expensive, but can be a better value if you want to make the most of the day by also visiting a cenote (a sinkhole) and Valladolid.

If you rent a car from Tulum, drive west towards Valladolid; and from the first roundabout, take the first left, which will head you to Coba.

Great little video of Coba and Surrounding Area: