At the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula on the “Flamingo Coast” is a string of small fishing communities.  Beginning at Chuburna and running east on Carreterra 27 for about 50 kilometers to Telchac Puerto, these villages vary in size and modernity.  Progreso, largest of them, has a population of a little over 37,000 and is the state’s main port. It hosts cruise ships twice a week at the “longest pier in the world” and has a burgeoning community of local artistsans, specialty shops and trendy restaurants lining the mile-long malecon. However, the overall ambience remains that of an quiet, country town.

To the west are Chelem and Chuburna, which have pretty much remained fishing villages, albeit ones with gringos in them.  Immediately to the east is Chicxulub (cheek shoo loob) Puerto, another fishing village, but one with it’s own pier (and sight of the geographical anomaly, the Chicxulub Crater believed to have been caused by a meteor hitting the earth).  There is no stopping point between Progreso and Chicxulub – they form a single entity, unless you happen to know that one starts and the other stops at the Oxxo on Calle 27.

Beyond Chicxulub, comes a string of essentially “beach house” communities, all the way to Telchac Puerto.  In the Uaymitun (why me toon), San Benito and San Bruno areas and on into Telchac Puerto, the beach houses of wealthier people from other parts of Mexico (primarily Merida) line up between the highway and the ocean like soldiers ready for drill.  The original villages are still there, but they are dwarfed into insignificance by the parade of summer homes and condos.  These homes are, for the most part, large and modern and can be had relatively cheaply with one exception – the families that own them like to use them for the months of July and August when the heat and humidity run them out of Merida. It is possible to rent them in July and August, too, but the monthly rent is exorbitant at two-three times the normal monthly rate.

The eco-tourism trade is building in the Progreso Corridor, and there are several eco-parks in the area.  Rio Largatos and Alacranes Reef being two of the larger ones, but there are small flamingo sanctuaries that dot the highway in both directions.  The Celestun Biosphere Reserve takes up much of the western part of the state that runs about half-way down the western side of the peninsula. There are also many Mayan ruins and cenotes within “day trip” distance.

Beach houses are plentiful and always looking for renters and can be had from $550 to $1500 per month (except for July and August); however, they all have the “summer” drawback of being used by their owners, or with rent that expands exponentially with the heat.  Rents, off the beach, run from $350 per month up.  The local mercado in Progreso is large and provides many options for fresh produce, meat, fish, fresh-squeezed juice, clothes and lunch counters.  And, when the cruise ships are in, the popular Artisan Bazaar is open with a cornucopia of products made locally.  In fact, the city is building another area for a second artist’s market now.

There are a several small department stores in Centro, along with banks and the San Francisco grocery store.  Walmart has a large subsidiary store at the crossroads on the southside called Bodega Aurrera where you can buy food, household goods, toys, TVs – all the things you expect to get from a Walmart.  However, since this is a poorer area, the quality of the products sold is not high – for the quality stuff, you’ll need a trip to Merida. But, you can count on a trip to Merida once or twice a month anyway, where your shopping options are virtually unlimited.

Progreso has the emergency service of the Mexican Red Cross, one public Health Center, Centro de Salud, and the Centro Médico Americano, a private institution and Enfermería Naval (which does accept civilians with emergency medical situations). All facilities provide medical services 24/7.  There is also a clinic for those insured by IMSS and ISSSTE.  In addition, there are many doctors, dentists, opticians and pharmacies in the Progreso area, and more hospitals, doctors and dentists, etc. in nearby Merida.

There is an airport in Merida, too. However, the Merida Airport flights are limited and only go to Houston and Los Angeles.  For the full-service airport in Cancun, you can opt to take the bus (a four to five hour ride), or drive three hours to Cancun International rather than pay the high cost of the hour’s flight from Merida to Cancun (which rivals the cost of the international flights in and out of Cancun).

Looking for “low-key” on the beach.  Look no further than the Progreso Corridor.

Average Lifestyle Rating: B+ (range B- to A+)
Click here to view our directory of Cozumel local resources

How does living on an island in the Caribbean Ocean sound? Exotic, glamorous, stress-free, infrastructure-deprived? Isla de Cozumel, off the eastern side of the Yucatan Peninsula 20 kilometers southeast from Playa del Carmen, may just fit the bill – except for the infrastructure part. With multiple ferries running back forth from Playa del Carmen all day long (and a third ferry that carries both you and your car), you have the benefits of an isolated Caribbean key, but the convenience of the shopping and services, when you need or want them, of a mid-size mainland city (or, if you take the car over, you can run up to  a larger place, Cancun).

Which is not to say that you ever need leave the island. Because you could arrive, never leave, and still have everything you need. San Miguel, the main city of Cozumel, has an international airport with flights arriving and departing every day to the United States. San Miguel also sports two huge department stores, Mega and Chedraui, many fast-food chain stores, and a tourist section of town along the beach that is clean, bright and attractive. Add to that, the fact that the cruise ships all leave by 5:00 pm eliminating the hustle and bustle that tourists generate, and you really couldn’t ask for more from a tourist meca.

There are two universities on the island, if you feel the need for more education. Cozumel also brags its own Mayan ruins, an historical lighthouse at either end, a large ecological park on the southern end of the island, two eco-water parks, Chankanaab and Xel-Ha, and some seriously good seafood. In fact, if you want good food, skip the fast-food chains and find someone to show you the “local” restaurants (which are not always recognizable as anything other than another home). It will be worth your trouble, if you like to eat. As the tourist trade has grown, so has the range and sophistication of the island’s restaurants. Now, you can enjoy cuisine with a more international flavor, although you still can’t beat the seafood, no matter it’s national cuisine origin.

Home and apartment rentals are available on a “leased” basis from six months to two years. Or, if you want something more permanent, you can buy a condo in one of the developments that line the beach on the north and south sides of San Miguel. Although, $850 per month is the average rent, there are two bedroom places available for as little as $600 per month. Utilities average $120 – $250 per month, depending on your need for technology.

The Cozumel International Airport terminal was remodeled and expanded in 2003 and from there you can take direct flights to DFW, Atlanta, Houston, Charlotte, Toronto, Calgary, Cancun, Merida, Villahermosa, Veracruz and Mexico City via ten airlines.  San Miguel also has a full-service hospital, Cozumel Medical Center, with a wide array of specialties, hospital, diagnostic and dental services, and two clinics, Centro de Especialidades Médicas de Cozumel and Medica San Miguel de Cozumel.

If you are in the “B – A” income bracket and would like to live on an island, then Cozumel has everything you want.

Best Places to Live & Visit in the Mayan Riviera

The Riviera Maya area of the Yucatan Peninsula stretches from Cancun through Playa del Carmen southward to Tulum, and includes the island of Cozumel, located 20 kilometers from Playa del Carmen into the Caribbean. Many people, both visitors and residents, believe this is the best place to live in Mexico for gorgeous, sandy beaches. The Mexican Caribbean is magic.

If you are into scuba diving, snorkeling, kayaking, fly-fishing, kite boarding or exploring some  7,000 fresh water cenotes, the jungle, or Mayan ruins, this may be the place for you to live.  If you just enjoy hanging out on some of nature’s most impressive beaches and blue water it’s also a nice choice.

Tulum, Playa del Carmen, and Cozumel are all part of this wonderland of water sports.  In the north, Cancun is known for its beautiful beaches and the zona hotelera. A bit pricey for our Lifestyle Rating System, it is nevertheless a wonderful place to shop for a day, or for a weekend of fun.

Living In Tulum

Average Lifestyle Rating: B – (range  C+ to A+) Click here to view our directory of Tulum local resources The Allure of Living in Tulum Tropical magnetism.  We could go on and on, but to truly appreciate the nature inspired vibration of living in Tulum, you need to go. If you are looking for the […]

Sac-Be in Akumal

Sac-Be is a local resource website founded in Akumal, Mexico about 15 minutes north of Tulum up hwy 307.  Sac-Be has expanded over the years and their adventures from Akumal have lead to insightful discoveries, more treasures and resources that encompass the larger Yucatan region. At Sac-Be, you will find information on current events in Akumal, […]

Move to Tulum and Eat The Beach!

We Came to Tulum for the Beaches, But the food Keeps Us Happy! We started out like many Americans do I suppose when they venture to Mexico for the first time, we stayed at an “all-inclusive resort” on Cozumel based on a tip from a friend.  It wasn’t anything fancy by today’s opulent luxury standards, but the […]

Tulum is Booming

I want to share an excerpt from an email I recently received from International Living about Tulum. I happen to live in Tulum and I can attest the little beach town on Mexico’s Caribbean is booming. My wife and I have lived in Tulum full-time since 2008 and have seen a lot of changes since. […]

Cozumel

The Sleepy Island is Waking up To Tourists and Cruise Ships Average Lifestyle Rating: B+ (range B- to A+)Click here to view our directory of Cozumel local resources How does living on an island in the Caribbean Ocean sound? Exotic, glamorous, stress-free, infrastructure-deprived? Isla de Cozumel, off the eastern side of the Yucatan Peninsula 20 kilometers […]

Coba Ruins

Overgrown with tropical forest, the Coba ruins (pronounced coh-ba), the once great city that for a time, dominated ancient Mayan society in northern Yucatan is almost forgotten. Aside from a gentle stream of explorers flowing through each year the ancient city is one of the few visited ruins that has been left relatively untouched. Some, expecting a […]

Living in Playa Del Carmen

Average Lifestyle Rating: B+ (range – B- to A+)Click here to view our directory of Playa del Carmen local resources To get to Playa from the U.S. or Canada, you will use the International Airport in Cancun. Cancun Int’l has many flights from different US cities. To get to Playa del Carmen from the U.S. […]

Places To Live & Visit in the Yucatan Peninsula

Unique among the mix of peoples who have become Mexico, are the Yucatecans. Once an independent country, by mutual agreement, Yucatan became part of Mexico in 1821, went independent again in 1823, and finally rejoined Mexico for good in 1825. However, the defining observation about this blend of Mayan, Spanish, Caribbean, French and Middle Eastern (yes, Middle Eastern!) cultures is still “Yucatecans first, Mexicans second!”

In addition to the well-known Riviera Maya on the eastern side of the Yucatan Peninsula, there are the states of Yucatan and Campeche on the northern and western sides. In state of Yucatan, Merida, the capital and financial and cultural center, claims a large, active ex-pat community while the beaches of the Gulf are preferred by a large number of “snowbirds” that join the fishing communities in the Progreso Corridor from November to April every year.

You can find almost any eco-environment you like in the state of Yucatan, except mountains (the Puuc Hills in the southern part of the state do not qualify).  It is home to the Gulf Coast, hundreds of cenotes, Mayan ruins – including the most famous Chichen Itza and an extraordinary, fascinating culture and people.

Campeche

Average Lifestyle Rating: C+ (range D+ to B+) Built in 1517 AD, and located on the southeastern side of the Yucatán Peninsula, Campeche is the capital city of the state of Campeche and an excellent retirement destination for several reasons. The most important are the low cost of living, affordable real estate, high degree of safety and a […]

Places To Visit In Yucatan

Cenotes In the Yucatan, there are over 2,400 cenotes that have actually been studied and registered.  Here are some of the most popular: Ik-Kil
 – Located less than 2 miles from Chichén Itzá. Called the “Sacred Blue Cenote,” it is a perfectly round well-type cenote with magnificent hanging vines and waterfalls. This is an ideal […]

Merida – The White City

The White City is Beautiful Culture and Architectural History Average Lifestyle rating: B- (range D- to A+) Merida is, not only the capital of the state of Yucatan, it is the financial and cultural center.  It got its nickname, “The White City,” in its early history because most of its buildings were white and the customary clothing worn by […]

The Progreso Corridor

Average Lifestyle rating: C (range from D- to A-) At the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula on the “Flamingo Coast” is a string of small fishing communities.  Beginning at Chuburna and running east on Carreterra 27 for about 50 kilometers to Telchac Puerto, these villages vary in size and modernity.  Progreso, largest of them, has a […]

Visit Campeche

Breaking the tide of the Gulf of Mexico, Campeche (Com pay CHAY) is one of the oldest colonial cities in Yucatán Peninsula, founded in 1540. In golden years, it thrived as the major port; trading timber, dyewood, silver and gold. An elegant city soon emerged behind the harbour, patterned with baroque style townhouses and ornamental […]

Izamal

Known as the “Yellow City,” Izamal may be  the oldest colonial settlement in Yucatán state, located only 45 minutes from the capital, Mérida. It was founded in early 16th century, atop the pre-existing Mayan city of Izamal. As was the strategy of Spanish conquest, temples and buildings were destroyed, and a colonial township constructed from […]

Uxmal

Almost 80 km south of Mérida, the present-day capital of the Yucatán state, is the ruin of Uxmal (OOSH mal), an influential Mayan metropolis of the late classic period (AD 600 to 900). In its heyday, Uxmal’s influence spread across northern Yucatán and included subjugating the neighboring settlements of Labná and Sayil. Today, it is […]