Breaking the tide of the Gulf of Mexico, Campeche (Com pay CHAY) is one of the oldest colonial cities in Yucatán Peninsula, founded in 1540. In golden years, it thrived as the major port; trading timber, dyewood, silver and gold. An elegant city soon emerged behind the harbour, patterned with baroque style townhouses and ornamental plazas. Unfortunately, that news of prosperity swiftly traveled the far seas, capturing the attention of notorious seafarers. For years pirates plundered. Until eventually weary “Campechanos” built a fortress in the early 18th century. Today, only two segments of the once 2.5 km stone wall survive; the rest has been demolished and replaced with modernity.

Inside where the wall once stood, is one of Mexico’s most preserved colonial cities – added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1999. In daylight, appealing pastel-colored houses are a portrait against the turquoise sky; while at night, shades dance between shadows and mellow light. Once an “Achilles’ heel,” Campeche’s sea location is now a strategic advantage. Its breezy streets a refreshing alternative to the swelter of inland Mérida, or Valladolid.

An interesting way to explore Campeche is to walk parallel to the remaining historic wall, near calle 8. Several bastions now house museums and galleries which showcase regional life and culture.  In addition, the surrounding colonial architecture is impressive. “El Museo de la Ciudad,” the city museum, is in the bastion “Baluarte de San Carlos,” near the present state government building. From its roof, there is a decent view to the Gulf.

The principle plaza, boxed between calles 8 and 10, and 55 and 57, is the space to break between exploring. It’s breezy, especially after the hottest hours of the day. And Mexican plazas, you’ll observe, are awash with local life. There may even be a serenade. On the north side is a replica of the colonial administration headquarters. It’s an attractive building – mustard yellow, with arcaded terraces, stately decoration – which now houses a public library; and adjacent to that, “Centro Cultural Casa Número 6,” exhibits items from Campeche’s former high-society. The protagonist of the plaza, however, is the “Catedral de la Concepción Inmaculada,” Campeche’s incandescent cathedral. Its construction began shortly after the conquest, though was not complete until 1705.

To experience from above the wall, visit “Puerta de la Tierra,” the fortress gate at the end of calle 59. From its small stone stairway, you climb to the top and walk the stretch towards to “Baluarte de San Juan,” while overlooking Campeche’s urban sprawl. Inside the small rooms, a few artifacts attempt to convey the life and service of the militaries, though it’s not the most intriguing collection. It’s “Fuerte de San Miguel,” a colonial fort on the edge of the city, which shelters the superior museum. On display are several interesting pieces excavated from nearby archaeological zones, Calakmul and Edzná.

“Camerones al coco,” shrimp covered in coconut is the dish of Campeche, and you’ll find it almost everywhere. La Casa Vieja, overlooking the main plaza, is the restaurant with a view serving-up Yucatecan fare. Or to taste the unusual, grab a tamale – a traditional pre-Colombian corn dish steamed in a banana leaf – with a twist of chocolate from restaurant, Chocol Ha. In this trendy bistro, tucked inside a semi-restored home on calle 59, options range from traditional to European-inspired – all of course, with “cacao”.

Find accommodation in the historic center. Hotel Lopez on calle 12 (between 61 and 63) is a popular business hotel. Rooms are comfortable and reasonably priced at around $500 MXP per night. While, on calle 59, Hacienda Puerta Campeche is upmarket. Its lavish rooms, around $500 USD a night, open onto a luscious courtyard, with an exquisite pool interweaving the colonnades. There’s also a spa, rooftop bar and fine restaurant. Otherwise, the Monkey Hostel on the main plaza is cheap, but has a priceless location.

Most people arrive into Campeche on the 180 highway from Mérida. If you head south, along the Gulf coast, you’ll connect to the states of Tabasco and Chiapas. A 2-3 day stay is sufficient within the city, though if you have more time, explore the archaeological sites Calakmul, Edzná and Becán further inland.

For more information, visit the tourism desk just off the main plaza, on calle 55.

Known as the “Yellow City,” Izamal may be  the oldest colonial settlement in Yucatán state, located only 45 minutes from the capital, Mérida.

It was founded in early 16th century, atop the pre-existing Mayan city of Izamal. As was the strategy of Spanish conquest, temples and buildings were destroyed, and a colonial township constructed from the ruins. Izamal had been an important ceremonial site for the indigenous, so perhaps, exploiting an existing inclination to worship in the area; Franciscan monks bestowed Izamal with a religious distinction. A large monastery was built from the decapitated temple of Ppapp-Hol-Chac. To this day, Izamal remains an important center of Catholic faith. In 1993, it received a visit from Pope John Paul II – an event that exposed Izamal to the international world.

Its reputation as a city ‘almost entirely painted in mustard yellow’ is what compels most visitors to Izamal. Whether it be the entire façade, or a part of a decorative motif, few buildings have not conformed to this unique colour scheme. With the advantage of a well-preserved historic center, it’s refreshing to escape the bustle of Mérida and stroll along its cobbled streets. Incandescent in the afternoon, Izamal is most charming in the evening, when the historic center glows in the streetlight like a 1920s film-set.

Ascending from the main plaza, the stone stairway leads into “Convento de San Antonio de Padua” – among the oldest monasteries in the Americas. Its arcaded walls tower over the plaza. Construction of the monastery began in 1533, supervised by Diego de Landa, the Franciscan monk infamous for his brutality in evangelising the Maya. Still, on the floors under the arcades, it’s possible to see one or two stones embellished with Mayan iconography. Flanking the courtyard is the principle church, “Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal.” Its second floor houses the statue of “Our Lady of Izamal,” Patron Saint of Yucatán.

The green hills beyond are in fact unexcavated ruins. Before the arrival of conquistadors, Izamal was a large and important pre-Colombian city in northern Yucatán – revered as the home of Kinich Kakmó, the sun god, and Itzamná, the creator deity. There are several archaeological sites around the city. But, Kinich-Kakmó on Calle 27, north of the convent, is the most impressive. Visitors can still climb to the top – an increasing rarity for Mayan ruins. From its summit, there is an expansive view of Izamal and beyond.

For a glimpse into contemporary Mexican culture, particularly its art, visit “Centro Cultural y Artesanal” gallery, on the main plaza. It comprises an intriguing collection of folk art from across Mexico. Housed in a restored colonial house, it’s also a pleasure to admire the architecture around the exhibitions. There is a well-stocked gift shop, selling local textiles, handcrafts and jewellery, and even a spa. “El Museo de la Comunidad,” Izamal’s community museum is below the east side of the Convent.

To eat while you’re there, “Kinich” on Calle 27, near the entrance for Kinich-Kakmó, offers tasty Yucatán fare. Its dining area in the leafy courtyard is a pleasant setting for dinner. Also, “Los Portales” on Calle 33, at the corner of the convent, is a good choice. Prices are reasonable (plates average $4USD), and its large windows open to an intriguing view of life on the Plaza.

Most people visit Izamal in a day-trip from either Mérida or Valladolid, though there are several hotels around the city. “San Miguel Arcángel” on Calle 31A is a prime location, offering rooms with balconies overlooking the main plaza. Rates are around $50USD, which includes a continental breakfast. While “Mancan ché” on Calle 22, four blocks from the convent, is a quieter option. However, if you decide not to spend the night, plan to stay until the evening. From 8:30pm, Monday through Saturday, there is a light and sound show in the Convent. Entrance is around $4USD.

There is a regular bus service between Izamal and Mérida, as well as Valladolid and Cancun. The bus station is located on Calle 32, between 31 and 31A behind the Municipal Palace. For more information, visit the tourism office on Calle 30A, between 31 and 31A.

The following are opinions, arguments, and anecdotes from on-line American ex-pats in Mexico about the latest USSD Travel Warning for Mexico.

From Gary and Donna’s Pictorial Driving Guide to San Carlos, Mexico (http://www.mexicodrivingtips.com/)

Look closely at the data for the northwestern part of Mexico which had 42 Americans killed from all causes (there were at least four suicides) in the last three years combined. Those are the largest tourist areas of Northwest Mexico, excluding Tijuana. In Los Angeles County, there have been 103 murders in the last six months. In 2008, there were 324 homicides in L.A. County. People in Los Angeles would probably say that there are certain unsafe areas to avoid. According to the latest FBI crime statistics, Phoenix, Arizona is the kidnapping capital of the US. People in Phoenix would probably say that there are certain unsafe areas to avoid. People living in Mexico would say the same thing.

For more than a dozen years more than five major US Motor Coach Tour Companies travel the Mexican Copper Canyon route every week with around 40 older/retiree passengers per coach. They travel through Nogales to San Carlos, then through the Copper Canyon, then up through Chihuahua and Juarez. There is even one company that travels exclusively from El Paso/Juarez to the Canyon and back; the areas covered by news reports. That’s over 7000 tourists per year. In all those years, including 2009, there has not been one incidence of drug-related violence against any of them.

Recent FBI statistics show the murder rate per 100,000 inhabitants in Baltimore is 43.3, Washington DC is 29.1, and Detroit is 47.

Mexico, which suffered an especially violent year in 2008, recorded a murder rate of about 10 per 100,000 inhabitants. Life is, statistically, far more dangerous north of the border.

From Douglas Anthony Cooper’s article for the Huffington Post (http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/douglas-anthony-cooper/canada-attack-resort_b_1232486.html?just_reloaded=1)

Cooper, who lives in Mexico, shares his observations about living in “dangerous, murderous” Mexico.

. . . People ask me, regularly, how they can travel safely to Mexico. Here I have impeccable advice: follow this, and you’re pretty much guaranteed to keep your head. Taking notes? Good.

Do not, under any circumstances, take a job with a major drug cartel. Just say no. You do not want to be a hit man, or a mule, or even middle management — that’s how people get killed.

I mean it: that is how people get killed. Sunbathing, on the other hand, is oddly uneventful. Yes, there are a few places in Mexico that I would avoid, . . . Most border towns are not the destination of choice, except I suppose when brothel-hopping, in which case I’m told a soupçon of danger is bracing (and well-deserved).

. . . The San Francisco Chronicle has a useful list of places to avoid — mostly areas on the American border, and south along the Pacific Coast to the state of Guerrero. The Washington Post has another useful list: they add to this the entire state of Veracruz (which is very sad — it’s lovely). These two guides will steer you clear of all the places you have been reading about, including the very few resort towns that have become dangerous: Mazatlán, for instance, and Acapulco.

Again, however, this is a tiny part of Mexico. “Of 2,500 municipalities (what we call counties), only 80, or fewer than five per cent, have been affected by the drug war.”

Mexico’s homicide rate as a nation isn’t even world-class. The country is in fact something of a sissy relative to the thugs in the neighborhood. Before avoiding Mexico, cross the following nations off your list: Honduras, El Salvador, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Venezuela, Jamaica, Belize, Guatemala, Bahamas, Columbia, South Africa, Trinidad and Tobago, Brazil… ah, but I’m boring you. I shouldn’t be: All of these countries — and this is only half the list — are murderfests relative to Mexico. Some of these places are worse than Miami.

. . . You know how Los Angeles doesn’t have a whole lot in common with an Amish community in Pennsylvania? Well, multiply that difference a thousand-fold when comparing Ciudad Juarez (a genuinely dangerous place) to a Maya village in the state of Yucatán. In fact, you are quite a bit safer in this state — which includes the ruins of Chichen Itza and Uxmal — than you are in Canada. The national homicide rate in Canada is 1.85 victims per 100,000. Sorry, kids, but that’s a war zone relative to Yucatán: .5 in 100,000.

. . . The truth is that most of Canada is almost as safe as Yucatán.

In 1987, UNESCO designated Sian Ka’an a World Heritage site, owing to its critical contribution to regional biodiversity. Indeed, its tranquil waters and coastal dunes have not gone unobserved by species threatened by human activity; the reserve is a final refuge for several marine turtles, as well as the ‘vulnerable’ West Indian manatee.

For the Pre-Colombian Mayan inhabitants, Sian Ka’an was “Where the Sky is Born.” Certainly, its ecology has evolved from spectacular environmental forces, which one could conceive as divine. A unique feature of the landscape is los Petenes:  small islands that grow in the chaos of muddy, brackish water. Los Petenes comprise an unusual community of tropical forest and mangroves, which are nourished by freshwater springs, flowing from the peninsula’s enormous underground river system.

Visitors are also drawn to Sian Ka’an for its Mayan history. Archaeologists have recorded 23 sites, which include ancient Muyil – one of the oldest Mayan cities in Yucatán Peninsula, established as early as 350 BC. Its architecture is the same “Peten” style characteristic of the monumental city of Tikal, in Guatemala.

Several operators offer low-impact tours of the lagoons and wetlands, as well as the ancient culture. And, considering the very few trails cut into the gregarious vegetation, it’s more comfortable and enjoyable to explore the territory as part of an organised group. “Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK)” and “Community Tours Sian Ka’an” are two reputable sustainable-tourism companies, which provide boat trips, kayaking and fishing excursions. Wildlife and bird-watching enthusiasts will particularly delight in a canal tour, which meanders through the flooded passages interweaving the mangroves. With over three hundred recorded species of bird – which are either endemic, or migrate to the reserve for nesting – spotting one or two remarkable species is a forgone conclusion.

Most visitors find it more convenient to experience the Sian Ka’an in a day-trip, since the reserve has restricted accommodation options. However, should you be determined to awake to sunrise over a deserted Caribbean beach or admire the sunset behind uninterrupted lagoons and wetlands, Cesiak’s lodgings are cozy, beachfront ‘tarp-cabins’ at reasonable prices. Its sunset patio, above the restaurant, is a spectacular setting to dine and drink cocktails. Otherwise, the Sian Ka’an is only a few steps from Tulum’s beachfront hotel zone.

There is no public transport into the reserve, so if you’re not visiting as part of a tour, it’s advisable to hire a car from one of the rental offices in Tulum’s town. The road south of the beach-zone accesses the northern areas of the biosphere, heading toward the fishing town, Punta Allen. Highway 307 from Tulum to Chetemal runs parallel to the western border.  It’s worth noting that the gravel roads within the biosphere are typically littered with potholes, especially after rainy season. That said, bouncing beneath the canopy is part of the charm of this natural realm.

More information on operators and tourism in the Sian Ka’an is available from Tulum’s tourism station, located on the junction between 307 and the highway to Cobá.

Almost 80 km south of Mérida, the present-day capital of the Yucatán state, is the ruin of Uxmal (OOSH mal), an influential Mayan metropolis of the late classic period (AD 600 to 900). In its heyday, Uxmal’s influence spread across northern Yucatán and included subjugating the neighboring settlements of Labná and Sayil. Today, it is a well-preserved archeological zone, embodying Mexico’s ancient culture.

Buried between hills of dry deciduous forests, Uxmal testifies to the ingenuity of the Maya people to not only survive, but to thrive in a region prone to drought. Attempting to control their own water supply, particularly during the dry-season, the Mayans engineered large reservoirs, or ‘chultunes,’ sealed with lime mortar, used to collect rainfall. A well-preserved example is located near the entrance of the ruins.

The first structure on site is the staggering “El Adivino”, or Pyramid of the Magician. Measuring around 35 meters in height, it’s among the most imposing relics of ancient Mesoamerica. The temple’s unusual elliptical platforms, constructed from delicately cut stones set into concrete are not only beautiful, but also an excellent example of “Puuc” architectural influence, which swept the region near the end of the late classic era. This technique of molding, as opposed to layering large boulders upon one another, was considered an architectural advancement, enabling the Maya to construct sturdy, more spacious interiors.

The broad cubic portal on the crest of the base is a graphic example of Puuc art. Its walls are intricately sculpted with geometric designs and Chaac masks, which, even after millennia in the erosive climate, remain aesthetic. The façade is particularly impressive, in that it is fashioned into an enormous mask of the rain deity, his gapping mouth framing the entrance. According to the Mayan folktale, “the Dwarf of Uxmal,” El Adivino was raised overnight by a magician dwarf. Born from a gourd and raised by an old sorceress, the he became ruler of Uxmal after defeating the previous potentate in a challenge, which resulted in his death.

At the step of the temple, the “Cuadrángulo de las Monjas,” or the Nunnery, is a compound of four ornate buildings, surrounding a large platform. Archaeologists theorize that it once functioned as a palace complex. Indeed, each structure is so richly decorated with mosaics, latticework and bas-reliefs, that it’s easy to wile away hours in awe of the sculptors’ creative vision. On the western building, there is a splendid incarnation of the feathered serpent, Kukulkan, which interweaves artwork into the top of the façade.

The Maya were dexterous architects that developed sophisticated geometric structural designs that, not only used their environment to advantage, but also incorporated their theism. Across archaeological sites there are examples of constructions interacting with solar and lunar cycles, as well as seasonal patterns. The corners of each structure in the Nunnery align but do not connect, which facilitates the passage of air through the interior.

Just to the south are the majority of the site’s excavated structures, including the most prominent: “Palacio del Gobernador,” or Governor’s Palace. This rectangular building is the prize of Uxmal. It’s separated into three sections by two triangular arches, which once served as passageways. Though the interior has partially collapsed, you can imagine the stateliness it once claimed. At the center of the decorated façade is a sculpture of a prominent figure garbed in a spectacular headdress and positioned on the coiled body of a serpent. It is from this mysterious individual that the structure gets its name.

Admission into Uxmal is $150MXN. This fee will also provide entrance into the light and sound show that begins at 7 pm. It’s in Spanish, though electronic translators can be hired from the admissions office. Surrounding the entrance are a small restaurant, serving traditional Yucatán fare, a bookstore and a souvenir shop. Uxmal can be easily visited as a day trip from Mérida.