Sombreros and tequila may be what first comes to mind when we think of Mexico, but it’s the colorful colonial cities which are the foundation of contemporary Mexican culture and in the highland hub of San Cristóbal de las Casas, you’ll find its beating heart.

Located in the southwestern state of Chiapis, it’s in the central plateau of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas and close to the geographicalcenter of the state.  San Cristóbal sits at 2200 meters elevation, so expect cool nights, particularly from November to April, and rain. Some people experience altitude sickness – tiredness and mild flu-like symptoms at such heights, so it’s is a good idea to plan to spend, at least, four nights so that you’ll have two full days for cruising the city, and another day to visit nearby communities.

Though it’s now peaceful, San Cristóbal’s history is replete with confrontation.  Often manifested as episodes of extreme repression by the colonizers with concomitant resistance by the indigenous natives.  The most recent political storm erupted in January 1994, when the masked members of the Zapatista National Liberation Army (EZLN), a leftist guerrilla movement, stampeded the city and seized control of government buildings. They demanded rights for the indigenous, a battle cry that has resonated since the arrival of the Spanish.  The Mexican Army soon forced them back into the mountains.

The city was founded as state capital in 1528 by Diego de los Mazariegos, following a brutal battle with the dominant Maya group, the Chiapa, who fought with a passion to protect their autonomy.  Its original name was “Villareal de Chiapa de los Españoles,” though it was renamed “San Cristóbal de las Casas,” in honor of Bartolome de las Casas, the first Bishop of Chiapas, who spent 50 years fighting for the rights of the native Maya. As far as the colonial elite of San Cristóbal were concerned, however, the native Maya would receive no rights or even consideration as human beings.  The colonists set to work breaking the spirit of the indigenous natives, enslaving them in a network of plantations known as the encomienda. The Spanish colonists grew rich harvesting wheat and coffee, while the Maya suffered from famine and diseases which decimated their population.  However, by the time of Mexican Independence in 1821, San Cristóbal was no longer a seat of prosperity.  It had been undermined by its highland location, which isolated it as the lowlands grew wealthier from agriculture.  It was replaced by Tuxtla Gutierrez as state capital.  And, it remained in obscurity until the 1970s, when it was discovered by the tourist industry.

While in San Cristóbal, the following are some of the places you do not want to miss visiting:

El Andador : The main thoroughfare, known informally as “El Andador,” cuts through the core of the city, and is the place to start your exploration.  It’s a pedestrian walkway, stretching from the south on “Avenida Miguel Hidalgo,” through the main plaza, and north along “Avenida 20 de Noviembre,” to Santo Domingo church.  It’s flanked with many shops, galleries, restaurants and bars and you’ll likely spend most of a day wandering up and down its ten block length.

El Zócalo: (or, the main plaza) is the pulse of San Cristóbal. By day, it’s humming with workers, vendors and tourists while, at night, it’s the heart of the city’s night life with live bands.  It is particularly picturesque at sunset when the mustard yellow facade of La Catedral de San Cristóbal radiates like a beacon in a sea of mountain peaks.

El Museo Na Bolom: If you only visit one museum, it must be El Museo Na Bolom ($3 US, 10 am – 7 pm daily). Found  33 Avenida Vicente Guerrero, this former home of Danish archaeologist, Frans Blom, and his wife, photographer Gertrude Duby-Blom is an elegant former monastery, complete with stone floors, courtyards and a garden.  The Bloms occupied it from the 1950s to the 1980s. The couple is renowned for their contribution to the study and protection of the Lacandón rainforest in eastern Chiapas, and among the exhibits is a rare collection of photographs taken by Gertrude of the Lacandón Maya, who lived in almost complete isolation until the 1990s.

Amber Museum: ($2 US, 10 am – 2 pm; 4 pm – 7 pm Tuesday to Sunday) four blocks west of El Zócalo, is another point of interest.  It features a small gallery of exquisite amber sculptures.  Chiapas is the only region in Mexico where amber is found.

Templo and Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo de Guzman: Looming above the artisan market north of El Zócalo is possibly one of Mexico’s most splendid churches.  Its baroque details and ornate façade, richly decorated with carvings and columns, create an intriguing contrast with the colorful motifs of indigenous textiles being sold below.  In the former monastery, there is a showroom of Sna Jolobil (9 am – 2 pm; 4 pm – 6 pm Monday to Saturday), a Mayan weavers’ co-operative renowned for its craftsmanship.  Prices range from a few dollars up to a couple of thousand.

TierrAdentro: On “Real de Guadalupe,” this mercado is run by Zapatista affiliates, an obvious favorite of political lefties, and people keen on Che Guevara t-shirts.  It’s in a large indoor courtyard surrounded by stalls selling crafts, memorabilia with the EZLN logo and, if you’re seriously interested, military boots.  It frequently hosts interesting events. The cuisine is Mexican and the dishes tasty and inexpensive.

For a moderately sized city nestled in the mountains of western Mexico, San Cristóbal has a surprisingly eclectic collection of restaurants and bistros.  Cuisine options range from basic Mayan fare to Mexican street food, Argentinean steaks, and even Thai curries.  For a splurge dinner, try El Argentino, on “Guadalupe.”  It’s a steakhouse offering delectable cuts of meats, but at premium prices.

Nightlife is equally diverse. If you’re seeking jazz worthy of New Orleans, you’ll like Dada Club Jazz Bar & Cafe on Avenida Insurgentes, around the corner from the Santo Domingo church.  Each night the stage is rocked by four or five bands.  It’s packed by 11 pm, so arrive early if you want a good spot.  Beer is reasonably priced around $2 USD, and there’s a menu of appetizers and small plate meals.  Alternatively, La Viña de Bacco on Guadalupe is an intimate wine bar where you can unwind and people-watch with a soothing cup of “mold” wine.  Prices start from around $4 USD.

For a place to stay, Hotel Parador Margarita on Avenida Felipe Flores provides good value.  It has large comfortable rooms that are set around a lovely garden.  But, it’s the elegant bathrooms with showers boasting hot water (24/7) and good water pressure that you will appreciate most.  Doubles are $65 USD.

If you’re coming from the west through Tuxtla Gutiérrez, take Federal Highway 190 directly to San Cristóbal.  From Villahermosa in Tabasco, Carreterra Federal 195 will get you there in less than 4 hours. From Palenque, travel south through the mountains on the “Ocosingo-Palenque Highway” (Carreterra Federal 199) to Ocosingo.  At Ocosingo, Highway 199 turns west for 86 kilometers where it ends at Carreterra Federal 190. Turn right (north) at this intersection – San Cristóbal de las Casas is 9 km.  The closest airport is in the state capital, Tuxtla Gutiérrez.

Robert Brady Museum

The Robert Brady Museum shows the collection of the artist, antiquarian, and decorator from Fort Dodge, Iowa. Ceramics, antique furniture, sculptures, paintings, and tapestries fill the restored colonial mansion, all beautifully arranged in rooms painted with bright colors. Note that the building numbers on this street are out of order. The museum is just across the street from numbers 21 and 121.

Calle Netzahuacóyotl 4, between Hidalgo and Abasolo, Cuernavaca, Phone: (777) 318-8554, Cost: $2, Hours: Tues.-Sun. 10-6

Xochicalco Ruins – Cuernavaca

Xochicalco is a well-preserved example of a fortified political, religious and commercial centre from the troubled period that followed the break-up of the great Mesoamerican states such as Teotihuacan, Monte Albán, Palenque and Tikal.

The high taluds of the pyramid bear relief carvings that depict towns that paid tribute to Xochicalco, as well as several seated figures that look Mayan. It has been speculated that Xochicalco may have had artists from other parts of Mesoamerica.  Other monuments at the site include several other step-pyramid temples, palaces, three ballcourts, sweat-baths, an unusual row of circular altars, and a cave with steps carved down into it. The site also has some free-standing sculptured stelae.  Not as well known as other ruins, it is not unusual for visitors to be part of a small group viewing the site.

Located in the north of the southeastern state of Chiapas, this archeological site is approximately eight kilometers from the modern town of Palenque. If you continue south, the road meanders, chillingly, up the mountain range, which soars to heights of 2,200 meters, and into the cool plateau of Los Altos (the highlands), where you’ll find the cultured colonial city of San Cristóbal de las Casas. To the north are the humid plains of Tabasco and the Gulf of Mexico.

There are several theories as to why the ancient Maya decided to build on such a sodden escarpment, surrounded by steep slopes and sudden drops, (though, the modern-day site is fortunately less hazardous). Archeologist Kirk D. French believes they may have considered it sacred. Woven with streams, springs and spectacular cascades thundering down the mountains, this luscious slice of rainforest manifests the spot of creation described in Popol Vuh, the collection of mytho-historical tales told by the K’iche’ Maya of the Guatemala highlands. Though with such an abundance of water, it’s no myth why this land is fertile. The location also offered Palenque the strategic advantage of defense, at least in theory, since it suffered two devastating attacks from Calakmul in A.D. 599 and 611. Nevertheless, intruders from the south, east and west could easily be seen clambering down the mountains, while panoramic views over the lowlands made it possible to spot those advancing from the north.

Palenque rose to domination in the Late Classic period (A.D. 600 – 800), most notably under the reign of revered ruler, K’inich Janaab’ Pakal (or Pakal the Great), who ascended the throne in A.D. 615 at the tender age of 12 years old. Its ancient name was Lakamha meaning “Big Water,” though it was tagged Palenque by Spanish Franciscan, Pedro Lorenzo de la Nada, who arrived in the region in 1560. Palenque, which is Spanish for “fortification,” was a translation from Otolum, meaning “strong houses,” its contemporary name among the local Maya.

It was Pakal, and later his sons, Kan Balam and Kan Xul who ushered Palenque into pre-eminence. Much of the art and architecture was commissioned during this time. They also secured political power – waging wars and establishing alliances with the mighty cities of Tikal and Yaxchilan to extend Palenque’s territory to the Gulf of Mexico. However, by A.D. 711 cracks slowly began to emerge in Palenque’s supremacy, leading to its shocking slaughter in battle at the hands of rival, Toniná. Its sudden decline, around A.D. 799, is attributed by archeologists to the widespread downfall that swept southern lowlands in the 8th and 9th centuries. It’s believed that the Maya suffered from a combined onslaught of drought, disease and general deterioration in agricultural production. By the time the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, Palenque had been abandoned.

Palenque is not a large site, but its architecture is among the finest of the ancient Mayan civilization.

• The Temple of Inscriptions is the most celebrated structure of Palenque. Measuring 24 meters in height, the once imposing stairway ascends the pyramid, leading to an elegant temple. Its facade is divided into six columns, four of which still display, surprisingly intact, stucco reliefs. Sadly, you cannot climb to the top for a better look, though Palenque’s museum exhibits several superb sculptures. The temple’s name derives from the inscribed tablets decorating its interior. These have been critical to advancing archeological understanding of Palenque’s dynasty, as well as ancient Mayan mythology and ceremony.

In 1949, while examining the temple, Mexican archeologist Alberto Ruz L’Huillier uncovered a hidden stairway leading to the depths of the pyramid. After years of excavation he made arguably the most critical discovery of Maya archeology, he found the sarcophagus of Pakal the Great. It was exquisitely sculpted with symbols and glyphs, which illuminated Mayan beliefs on death and its journey. In the museum, you’ll find a decent replica of this crypt, the jewels and artifacts surrounding Pakal’s body and (a copy) of the jade-mosaic mask which covered his face.

Also facing the plaza is the Palace – an elaborate complex comprising the remains of rooms, patios and underground arcades, as well as a sophisticated drainage system. The latter is one element of the hydrological apparatus developed by the Maya to control their water saturated environment. Large underground aqueducts were also constructed to channel waterways beneath the city.

In the northeast corner of the Palace, the Patio of the Captives houses several intriguing carvings of Palenque’s prisoners, while the Patio of the Warrior Chiefs is where military leaders once assembled to discuss matters of security. Finally, the large tower in the center, which is unique among Mayan architecture, may have functioned as an astronomical observation center.

The Crosses Group is just over the bridge. These were constructed under the rule of Kan Balam. The Temple of the Cross is the largest of the three temples, and though it’s fairly eroded, a significant proportion of its intricately designed roof-comb remains. On the east is the Temple of the Foliated Cross, and opposite that is the Temple of the Sun.

North of the Palace, beyond the Ball Court, is the North Group. Most of these temples are badly weathered, though the Temple of the Count was once the residence of Jean-Frédérick Waldeck in the 19th century. In this section there is also a statue of Tláloc, a deity of Teotihuacán, an ancient holy city of Mesoamerica now in ruins, near Mexico City.

Finally, the Bats Group, possibly a noble residence, and the Queen’s Bath, a picturesque waterfall and pool, are northeast of the Ball Court.

Part of Palenque’s appeal is the surrounding jungle, which is rich with exotic plants and wildlife. It’s not uncommon to sight, or at least to hear howler monkey, especially in the early morning and late afternoon. However, Palenque’s rainforest-like habitat also means rain and humidity. Wear comfortable, sturdy walking shoes and bring something waterproof for cover. Dry season is from November to April, and the rains fall between May and October.

Entry fee is $5 USD and Palenque is open from 8 am to 5 pm, Monday to Sunday. Last entry is at 4:30 pm. The small, but worthwhile museum is open 9 am to 4:30 pm, Tuesday to Sunday. (Note that it’s closed on Monday). The ticket into the archeolgical zone includes access into the museum, so don’t ditch those stubs. If you decide to visit the museum after touring Palenque, exit from the rear of the site, which is just a short distance from the museum. From there, you can catch a combi back into town, or if you arrived as part of an organized tour, you’ll need to return to the main entrance.

Guided tours around the ruins are not obligatory, as Palenque is well-explained in English and Spanish, both on-site and in the museum. However, for those seeking to enhance their experience, guides are often knowledgable about ancient and contemporary Mayan culture, not to mention that the Chiapanecans (pronounced – chia-pa-nai-kaans) are a charismatic people. I recommend hiring an official guide (easily found hovering around the main entrance), who charge approximately $85 USD for a two-hour tour (for up to seven people) in English.

The archeological zone is located within Palenque National Park, so you’ll also be required to pay a $2 USD admission fee at the park’s entrance near the museum. Palenque is a popular site with a lot on show, so arrive early to beat the crowds.

How to get there:

Because Palenque is relatively remote, most visitors incorporate it into a multi-day stay in Chiapas, or as an excursion from Tabasco or the Yucatán Peninsula. Other nearby attractions include the cascades, Agua Azul and Misol-Há; archeological site, Toniná and colonial city, San Crisótbal de las Casas. To enter Palenque from Campeche or Tobasco, you’ll need to connect from  highway 186 onto the 307, or if you’re coming from San Cristóbal or Tuxtla Gutiérrez, you’ll come up highway 199. There are several accommodation options in the rather un-alluring modern town of Palenque, though most people prefer to stay in the rustic zone of El Panchán.

Approximately 45 kilometers west of Tulum, and a stone’s throw from Valladolid, Coba is surprisingly accessible, though it appears remote. Its restoration has yet to gather momentum; and so far, the site has simply been cleared to create access. This is fortunate as the exuberant vegetation still surrounding barely excavated structures offers ample opportunity to spot wildlife.

Among the oldest and largest ancient Mayan lands, Coba emerged as a mighty city-state during the late Classic era, between 600 – 900 AD. Its political hegemony stretched some 50 square kilometers.

Trade is believed to have been Coba’s main activity, owing to its strategic position en route from the inland to the coast, as well as its abundant water supply which facilitated urban expansion, and made the city an attractive stop-over for traveling merchants.

The first westerner to come exploring was Mayanist Teobert Maler in 1891. As his small entourage searched for ruins, hacking through the thicket, they stumbled across a raised limestone passageway, which he identified as “five to six meters wide, and lined on both sides with great dressed stones.” This sacbé (pronounced saq-bay), or “white road” connected to an expansive pre-Colombian road-system, which interwove Coba, connecting it with other centers. Archeologists theorize that its purpose was probably ceremonial, used by the processions of nobles and priests in their commute to other cities.

Coba’s architecture is distinct from its closest neighbors, Chichen Itza and Uxmal, both of which have elaborate facades, rich with geometric patterns. Coba’s temples – tall and bulky – embody the “Peten” style more associated with the distant cities of the south. The theory is that Coba formed an alliance through marriage with Tikal, a powerful conquest state in the Peten Basin area of northern Guatemala, to facilitate trade. The new wives most probably bought fresh cultural ideas, which are manifested in the architectural design.

• Nohoch Mul (pronounced no-hooch-muul) is Coba’s main attraction, situated in “Grupo Nohoch Mul,” on the far edge of the site. Measuring approximately 42 meters in height, it is the tallest pyramid in northern Yucatán, and luckily, visitors are still permitted to climb its 120 steps. On top, there is a small temple sheltering a slightly eroded relief of a “diving god” thought to be associated with Venus. The real reward, however, is its panoramic view of the jungle.
• Close to the entrance, La Iglesia, found in “Grupo Cobá,” is another attractive temple. It is the second tallest on-site. Also, within this group are two ball courts, both with well-preserved features.
• Head past the ball courts towards “Grupo Macanxoc,” where you’ll find stelae reliefs of females standing on the heads of subjects in an expression of domination. Sadly, these are badly eroded. Though, archeologists believe that these images may represent the female rulers who arrived from Tikal.

Coba is scattered across the forest, so expect sizable distances between ruins. Wear comfortable walking shoes, especially if you intend to
climb Nohoch Mul, and carry repellent. The advantage of trekking between attractions is that you’re surrounded by wonderful exotic trees and plants peppered with wildlife, so have your camera handy. Or, you can rent a bicycle or rickshaw-style taxi near the entrance, or the Ball court.

Entrance costs $4 US and the site is open from 8 am to 5 pm, Monday to Sunday. Arrive early, to avoid the heat and humidity, and expect to spend from two to three hours exploring.

How to get there: You can get to Coba easily by jumping on an ADO bus from either Tulum or Valladolid. Alternatively, there are several tour operators in the region that offer excursions. These are more expensive, but can be a better value if you want to make the most of the day by also visiting a cenote (a sinkhole) and Valladolid.

If you rent a car from Tulum, drive west towards Valladolid; and from the first roundabout, take the first left, which will head you to Coba.

Great little video of Coba and Surrounding Area:

Breaking the tide of the Gulf of Mexico, Campeche (Com pay CHAY) is one of the oldest colonial cities in Yucatán Peninsula, founded in 1540. In golden years, it thrived as the major port; trading timber, dyewood, silver and gold. An elegant city soon emerged behind the harbour, patterned with baroque style townhouses and ornamental plazas. Unfortunately, that news of prosperity swiftly traveled the far seas, capturing the attention of notorious seafarers. For years pirates plundered. Until eventually weary “Campechanos” built a fortress in the early 18th century. Today, only two segments of the once 2.5 km stone wall survive; the rest has been demolished and replaced with modernity.

Inside where the wall once stood, is one of Mexico’s most preserved colonial cities – added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1999. In daylight, appealing pastel-colored houses are a portrait against the turquoise sky; while at night, shades dance between shadows and mellow light. Once an “Achilles’ heel,” Campeche’s sea location is now a strategic advantage. Its breezy streets a refreshing alternative to the swelter of inland Mérida, or Valladolid.

An interesting way to explore Campeche is to walk parallel to the remaining historic wall, near calle 8. Several bastions now house museums and galleries which showcase regional life and culture.  In addition, the surrounding colonial architecture is impressive. “El Museo de la Ciudad,” the city museum, is in the bastion “Baluarte de San Carlos,” near the present state government building. From its roof, there is a decent view to the Gulf.

The principle plaza, boxed between calles 8 and 10, and 55 and 57, is the space to break between exploring. It’s breezy, especially after the hottest hours of the day. And Mexican plazas, you’ll observe, are awash with local life. There may even be a serenade. On the north side is a replica of the colonial administration headquarters. It’s an attractive building – mustard yellow, with arcaded terraces, stately decoration – which now houses a public library; and adjacent to that, “Centro Cultural Casa Número 6,” exhibits items from Campeche’s former high-society. The protagonist of the plaza, however, is the “Catedral de la Concepción Inmaculada,” Campeche’s incandescent cathedral. Its construction began shortly after the conquest, though was not complete until 1705.

To experience from above the wall, visit “Puerta de la Tierra,” the fortress gate at the end of calle 59. From its small stone stairway, you climb to the top and walk the stretch towards to “Baluarte de San Juan,” while overlooking Campeche’s urban sprawl. Inside the small rooms, a few artifacts attempt to convey the life and service of the militaries, though it’s not the most intriguing collection. It’s “Fuerte de San Miguel,” a colonial fort on the edge of the city, which shelters the superior museum. On display are several interesting pieces excavated from nearby archaeological zones, Calakmul and Edzná.

“Camerones al coco,” shrimp covered in coconut is the dish of Campeche, and you’ll find it almost everywhere. La Casa Vieja, overlooking the main plaza, is the restaurant with a view serving-up Yucatecan fare. Or to taste the unusual, grab a tamale – a traditional pre-Colombian corn dish steamed in a banana leaf – with a twist of chocolate from restaurant, Chocol Ha. In this trendy bistro, tucked inside a semi-restored home on calle 59, options range from traditional to European-inspired – all of course, with “cacao”.

Find accommodation in the historic center. Hotel Lopez on calle 12 (between 61 and 63) is a popular business hotel. Rooms are comfortable and reasonably priced at around $500 MXP per night. While, on calle 59, Hacienda Puerta Campeche is upmarket. Its lavish rooms, around $500 USD a night, open onto a luscious courtyard, with an exquisite pool interweaving the colonnades. There’s also a spa, rooftop bar and fine restaurant. Otherwise, the Monkey Hostel on the main plaza is cheap, but has a priceless location.

Most people arrive into Campeche on the 180 highway from Mérida. If you head south, along the Gulf coast, you’ll connect to the states of Tabasco and Chiapas. A 2-3 day stay is sufficient within the city, though if you have more time, explore the archaeological sites Calakmul, Edzná and Becán further inland.

For more information, visit the tourism desk just off the main plaza, on calle 55.

Known as the “Yellow City,” Izamal may be  the oldest colonial settlement in Yucatán state, located only 45 minutes from the capital, Mérida.

It was founded in early 16th century, atop the pre-existing Mayan city of Izamal. As was the strategy of Spanish conquest, temples and buildings were destroyed, and a colonial township constructed from the ruins. Izamal had been an important ceremonial site for the indigenous, so perhaps, exploiting an existing inclination to worship in the area; Franciscan monks bestowed Izamal with a religious distinction. A large monastery was built from the decapitated temple of Ppapp-Hol-Chac. To this day, Izamal remains an important center of Catholic faith. In 1993, it received a visit from Pope John Paul II – an event that exposed Izamal to the international world.

Its reputation as a city ‘almost entirely painted in mustard yellow’ is what compels most visitors to Izamal. Whether it be the entire façade, or a part of a decorative motif, few buildings have not conformed to this unique colour scheme. With the advantage of a well-preserved historic center, it’s refreshing to escape the bustle of Mérida and stroll along its cobbled streets. Incandescent in the afternoon, Izamal is most charming in the evening, when the historic center glows in the streetlight like a 1920s film-set.

Ascending from the main plaza, the stone stairway leads into “Convento de San Antonio de Padua” – among the oldest monasteries in the Americas. Its arcaded walls tower over the plaza. Construction of the monastery began in 1533, supervised by Diego de Landa, the Franciscan monk infamous for his brutality in evangelising the Maya. Still, on the floors under the arcades, it’s possible to see one or two stones embellished with Mayan iconography. Flanking the courtyard is the principle church, “Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal.” Its second floor houses the statue of “Our Lady of Izamal,” Patron Saint of Yucatán.

The green hills beyond are in fact unexcavated ruins. Before the arrival of conquistadors, Izamal was a large and important pre-Colombian city in northern Yucatán – revered as the home of Kinich Kakmó, the sun god, and Itzamná, the creator deity. There are several archaeological sites around the city. But, Kinich-Kakmó on Calle 27, north of the convent, is the most impressive. Visitors can still climb to the top – an increasing rarity for Mayan ruins. From its summit, there is an expansive view of Izamal and beyond.

For a glimpse into contemporary Mexican culture, particularly its art, visit “Centro Cultural y Artesanal” gallery, on the main plaza. It comprises an intriguing collection of folk art from across Mexico. Housed in a restored colonial house, it’s also a pleasure to admire the architecture around the exhibitions. There is a well-stocked gift shop, selling local textiles, handcrafts and jewellery, and even a spa. “El Museo de la Comunidad,” Izamal’s community museum is below the east side of the Convent.

To eat while you’re there, “Kinich” on Calle 27, near the entrance for Kinich-Kakmó, offers tasty Yucatán fare. Its dining area in the leafy courtyard is a pleasant setting for dinner. Also, “Los Portales” on Calle 33, at the corner of the convent, is a good choice. Prices are reasonable (plates average $4USD), and its large windows open to an intriguing view of life on the Plaza.

Most people visit Izamal in a day-trip from either Mérida or Valladolid, though there are several hotels around the city. “San Miguel Arcángel” on Calle 31A is a prime location, offering rooms with balconies overlooking the main plaza. Rates are around $50USD, which includes a continental breakfast. While “Mancan ché” on Calle 22, four blocks from the convent, is a quieter option. However, if you decide not to spend the night, plan to stay until the evening. From 8:30pm, Monday through Saturday, there is a light and sound show in the Convent. Entrance is around $4USD.

There is a regular bus service between Izamal and Mérida, as well as Valladolid and Cancun. The bus station is located on Calle 32, between 31 and 31A behind the Municipal Palace. For more information, visit the tourism office on Calle 30A, between 31 and 31A.

In 1987, UNESCO designated Sian Ka’an a World Heritage site, owing to its critical contribution to regional biodiversity. Indeed, its tranquil waters and coastal dunes have not gone unobserved by species threatened by human activity; the reserve is a final refuge for several marine turtles, as well as the ‘vulnerable’ West Indian manatee.

For the Pre-Colombian Mayan inhabitants, Sian Ka’an was “Where the Sky is Born.” Certainly, its ecology has evolved from spectacular environmental forces, which one could conceive as divine. A unique feature of the landscape is los Petenes:  small islands that grow in the chaos of muddy, brackish water. Los Petenes comprise an unusual community of tropical forest and mangroves, which are nourished by freshwater springs, flowing from the peninsula’s enormous underground river system.

Visitors are also drawn to Sian Ka’an for its Mayan history. Archaeologists have recorded 23 sites, which include ancient Muyil – one of the oldest Mayan cities in Yucatán Peninsula, established as early as 350 BC. Its architecture is the same “Peten” style characteristic of the monumental city of Tikal, in Guatemala.

Several operators offer low-impact tours of the lagoons and wetlands, as well as the ancient culture. And, considering the very few trails cut into the gregarious vegetation, it’s more comfortable and enjoyable to explore the territory as part of an organised group. “Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK)” and “Community Tours Sian Ka’an” are two reputable sustainable-tourism companies, which provide boat trips, kayaking and fishing excursions. Wildlife and bird-watching enthusiasts will particularly delight in a canal tour, which meanders through the flooded passages interweaving the mangroves. With over three hundred recorded species of bird – which are either endemic, or migrate to the reserve for nesting – spotting one or two remarkable species is a forgone conclusion.

Most visitors find it more convenient to experience the Sian Ka’an in a day-trip, since the reserve has restricted accommodation options. However, should you be determined to awake to sunrise over a deserted Caribbean beach or admire the sunset behind uninterrupted lagoons and wetlands, Cesiak’s lodgings are cozy, beachfront ‘tarp-cabins’ at reasonable prices. Its sunset patio, above the restaurant, is a spectacular setting to dine and drink cocktails. Otherwise, the Sian Ka’an is only a few steps from Tulum’s beachfront hotel zone.

There is no public transport into the reserve, so if you’re not visiting as part of a tour, it’s advisable to hire a car from one of the rental offices in Tulum’s town. The road south of the beach-zone accesses the northern areas of the biosphere, heading toward the fishing town, Punta Allen. Highway 307 from Tulum to Chetemal runs parallel to the western border.  It’s worth noting that the gravel roads within the biosphere are typically littered with potholes, especially after rainy season. That said, bouncing beneath the canopy is part of the charm of this natural realm.

More information on operators and tourism in the Sian Ka’an is available from Tulum’s tourism station, located on the junction between 307 and the highway to Cobá.

Almost 80 km south of Mérida, the present-day capital of the Yucatán state, is the ruin of Uxmal (OOSH mal), an influential Mayan metropolis of the late classic period (AD 600 to 900). In its heyday, Uxmal’s influence spread across northern Yucatán and included subjugating the neighboring settlements of Labná and Sayil. Today, it is a well-preserved archeological zone, embodying Mexico’s ancient culture.

Buried between hills of dry deciduous forests, Uxmal testifies to the ingenuity of the Maya people to not only survive, but to thrive in a region prone to drought. Attempting to control their own water supply, particularly during the dry-season, the Mayans engineered large reservoirs, or ‘chultunes,’ sealed with lime mortar, used to collect rainfall. A well-preserved example is located near the entrance of the ruins.

The first structure on site is the staggering “El Adivino”, or Pyramid of the Magician. Measuring around 35 meters in height, it’s among the most imposing relics of ancient Mesoamerica. The temple’s unusual elliptical platforms, constructed from delicately cut stones set into concrete are not only beautiful, but also an excellent example of “Puuc” architectural influence, which swept the region near the end of the late classic era. This technique of molding, as opposed to layering large boulders upon one another, was considered an architectural advancement, enabling the Maya to construct sturdy, more spacious interiors.

The broad cubic portal on the crest of the base is a graphic example of Puuc art. Its walls are intricately sculpted with geometric designs and Chaac masks, which, even after millennia in the erosive climate, remain aesthetic. The façade is particularly impressive, in that it is fashioned into an enormous mask of the rain deity, his gapping mouth framing the entrance. According to the Mayan folktale, “the Dwarf of Uxmal,” El Adivino was raised overnight by a magician dwarf. Born from a gourd and raised by an old sorceress, the he became ruler of Uxmal after defeating the previous potentate in a challenge, which resulted in his death.

At the step of the temple, the “Cuadrángulo de las Monjas,” or the Nunnery, is a compound of four ornate buildings, surrounding a large platform. Archaeologists theorize that it once functioned as a palace complex. Indeed, each structure is so richly decorated with mosaics, latticework and bas-reliefs, that it’s easy to wile away hours in awe of the sculptors’ creative vision. On the western building, there is a splendid incarnation of the feathered serpent, Kukulkan, which interweaves artwork into the top of the façade.

The Maya were dexterous architects that developed sophisticated geometric structural designs that, not only used their environment to advantage, but also incorporated their theism. Across archaeological sites there are examples of constructions interacting with solar and lunar cycles, as well as seasonal patterns. The corners of each structure in the Nunnery align but do not connect, which facilitates the passage of air through the interior.

Just to the south are the majority of the site’s excavated structures, including the most prominent: “Palacio del Gobernador,” or Governor’s Palace. This rectangular building is the prize of Uxmal. It’s separated into three sections by two triangular arches, which once served as passageways. Though the interior has partially collapsed, you can imagine the stateliness it once claimed. At the center of the decorated façade is a sculpture of a prominent figure garbed in a spectacular headdress and positioned on the coiled body of a serpent. It is from this mysterious individual that the structure gets its name.

Admission into Uxmal is $150MXN. This fee will also provide entrance into the light and sound show that begins at 7 pm. It’s in Spanish, though electronic translators can be hired from the admissions office. Surrounding the entrance are a small restaurant, serving traditional Yucatán fare, a bookstore and a souvenir shop. Uxmal can be easily visited as a day trip from Mérida.