Is there anything more valuable than how you feel?

Right now, Catherine and I are feeling very grateful about our decision to move to Mexico over seven years ago, more grateful than ever to be sure.

Sometimes the path we choose in life unfolds with wisdom that reminds us that we are all part of something bigger. For us, we took a chance, we took risks, followed a dream, and it has delivered rewards beyond anything we could have ever imagined.

Most of all, it has given us our confidence that anything is possible! We actually manifested this dream and live it each day!

Life Can Change In An Instant and We Are Grateful

You see, we had no idea seven years ago, when we decided to go after our dream of moving to Tulum, Mexico that my dear Catherine would be diagnosed with cancer this past September.

Yes, the love of my life has cancer and a “life sentence.” You can be sure we will fill up whatever time we have with joy and presence in love. Just a gentle reminder for all; our lives on this beautiful planet are but a blink on the universal scale, and you never know when your time to move on will come.

We are grateful we chose to move to Mexico sooner, rather than later. We are grateful we developed the gumption to dive into unknown waters and embrace change. We bask in and cherish the friendships and experiences we have made in our little Mexican paradise known as Tulum.

• We are grateful for the time we have shared in this sublimely beautiful nature.
• We are grateful for the memories & adventures we’ve shared.
• We are grateful for the adventures to come.
• We are grateful and recognize the miracles that we experience.
• We are grateful we have chosen a place of healing and peace.
• We are grateful for a life well lived with our priorities in love.

We are truly humble and fortunate souls.

Meanwhile, Life Goes On…

We all get consumed by our work at hand. We buy into external and internal stress along with a growing sense of urgency that goes hand in hand with the perpetual pursuit of happiness.

The plans we have made to “someday” make a change seem to get put off and remain someday. In the meantime, while we work our lives away, the dreams become obscured from view…because we are too busy! Working for someday is no way to live. Accomplishment trumps productivity which is the difference between completion and just being busy.

NOW is the gift we are given, which is why it is called the present.

Many folks in modern times now work themselves sick these days, the stress of equating your self worth with your net worth is a recipe for dismay. Whats the point of working so hard and having so much stress in your life that you get sick when you were supposedly going to have the time to enjoy it?

These are realizations that led to an epiphany for us.

It is a not a healthy human experience to place so much value in material. It is a medical fact that 95% of ALL dis-ease is caused by stress! If you don’t believe it, ask your doctor and then think about that for a moment. Humans are meant to manifest and live their dreams, the peace and balance in this purposeful passion is where we always belong in each and every moment, true & eternal happiness.

Mexico On My Mind Today

As you may have noticed, we have been a bit quiet lately. Well, at the moment, Catherine and I are in Colorado undergoing chemo-radiation treatments. Our partner, Matt Ludwig, is in Tulum keeping the doors open for MOMM and has been charged with all around moral and operations. His favorite saying is…

“Keep up the good fight, Catherine – Strength, Power and Wisdom comes to us all as belief and faith develop upon the concrete foundation of a growing practice. You’re the Cure.”

Tulum is a magic potion for any ailment. A place of healing, peace and alignment that has blessed all three of us. In fact, Matt himself, has been able to make a major impact on  an autoimmune disorder known as Psoriasis, during the past two years, of which he attributes his progress mostly to the natural and peaceful environment of this wonderful place.

Mexico On My Mind, our labor of love, is on hiatus for just a short while while we focus on healing. We have very good health care and the support of loving friends and family. We are tentatively planning to return to Tulum at the end of January where Catherine will continue to heal and return to her healthy & vibrant self.

In the meantime, we have needed to adjust some modest goals for Mexico On My Mind, including an updated guide for 2015, more one-of-a-kind services and new resources we will be rolling out in the coming months. Please be patient with us as we keep THIS dream alive along the way for us ALL! We are looking forward to the upcoming year and blazing more trails for our Dreamers and Expats!

We are VERY grateful to have such a wonderful audience of people who share our love of Mexico and feel inspired to make their own dream of Mexico happen! This reciprocal influence creates a tidal wave of positive momentum that catapults us all into living our dreams TODAY, not just waiting for that someday.

Thank you for sharing that dream with us!

The lovely people who have been supporting us along this journey bring a tear of joy to my eye everyday. If you are interested in supporting Catherine’s medical expenses please visit our funding page here: http://www.gofundme.com/life4catherine

Happy Holidays from all of us at Mexico On My Mind! Sending love and grace from our family to yours and wishing you health, vitality and abundance.

Be good to yourself. Be true to yourself.

Life is short and we are meant to live our dreams.

Please keep us in mind for your Mexico insurance needs during your holiday season travels and beyond. If you or someone you know is headed to Mexico and needs insurance, here’s the link: https://www.mexicoonmymind.com/mexico-insurance/

Yours Truly,

Ron Burdine
Co-Founder and CIO (Chief Inspiration Officer)
MexicoOnMyMind.com
ron@mexicoonmymind.com

Together we can Make Mexico Happen!

Although most states operate through the laws of succession, based upon the Civil Code of the Federal District (Mexico City), each state may have it’s own law of succession.  Your Mexican attorney will know what law to follow when creating your will.  Make sure you ask your attorney what the beneficiary law is in your state when the Fideicomiso is established so that you understand how the assets will be divided.

Properties Held in Trust (Fideicomiso)

In the Mexican constitution, Article 27, any property located within the “restricted zone”, the strip of land 50 miles wide along the coastlines and 100 miles wide along the borders, acquired by a foreign person, must be held in a Mexican bank trust (fideicomiso).  Essentially, a fideicomiso is a contract with a Mexican bank for it to hold title on behalf of the foreign person.   When a Fideicomiso is recorded, beneficiaries and substitute beneficiaries are (should  be) designated within the trust contract and no will is required, nor is probate required for disposition of this property.

It is always a good idea to bring a trusted lawyer or Realtor during the creation of a trust to make sure beneficiaries are recorded as you are requesting.  Although it doesn’t happen often, there are times when the bank leaves out a beneficiary request and the trust is recorded with no beneficiary.  If this happens, it will cost money to create an amendment before your death, or, if you die without realizing no beneficiary was recorded, the property will go into probate and could be a costly and lengthy procedure for the intended benefactor.

While the property held in fideicomiso can be properly designated to the beneficiary, personal property such as automobiles, furniture, art work, and so forth are left unprotected if no Mexican Will is made. This is a very important reason for those living in the “restricted zone” to have a will, even if real properties are held in a Mexican bank trust.

Simple Deed Properties

If the property is located in the interior of the country, outside the “restricted zone”, more than likely the property is held outright in a deed fee simple.

In Mexico, there is no such thing as “Right of Survivorship” permitting the property to automatically transfer to the surviving spouse.   If the property is intended to be left entirely to a surviving spouse, a will needs to be created.  Without a will, what could happen, pursuant to the state’s civil code, is that the surviving spouse have to split the property equally with surviving children.   This may not have been the creators intention.

Tips for Preparing a Mexican Will

In Mexico, each September is “Create a Will” month.  Notaries will reduce their fee to record a will.  Things you should consider before you go to the Notary:

• Consider hiring an international tax accountant to help you sort through international tax /estate laws in advance of creating your will.   Make sure you discuss all of your properties and assets.
• If you have a U.S. or Canadian Will, Mexican Wills revoke any prior Wills, either explicitly or implicitly.  If the Mexican Will does not mention the U.S. or Canadian Will, the Mexican Will revokes all prior Wills by operation of law.  It is essential that revocation, or non-revocation, be specified in the Will.   Coordinate the estate plan so that all Wills work to achieve your goals.  A Mexican Will should cross-reference any US or Canadian Will, and vice versa.
• If your only Will is a Mexican one, and you own property in the US or Canada, consider including a residuary clause.   While not applicable in Mexico, it may help avoid having US or Canadian asset distributed pursuant to intestate laws.   In addition, taxes will be paid in the US from the residuary, unless specifically directed otherwise.
• Consider adding a “Simultaneous Death Clause” to your Will.

Costs for Preparing a Will

The cost for preparing a will is typically $500.00 U.S. or less.  As we stated previously, the month of September is “Create a Will Month” and costs are reduced, but there will be recording costs.

The first step is to choose a local funeral service.  The hospital staff will most likely be able to recommend a local funeral home for cremation or burial, however, each Consulate also maintains a list of funeral homes that have been recommended by families of American and Canadian citizens who have used their services.

If you do not speak Spanish well, bring a translator to the funeral home as they will advise family members what documentation will be needed by the Consulate.

Next, contact your nearest Consulate.  Although Consulate staff is unable to act as an agent for American citizens making funeral arrangements, they can help with many important areas such as locating and notifying the next of kin of their loved one’s passing, informing families about the Mexican legal requirements for claiming a loved one’s remains, identifying remains in certain cases, requesting official reports from Mexican authorities and assistance in shipping personal effects to the States or Canada.

Mexican authorities will often request identification documents for both the next of kin and the decedent, such as passports, birth certificates, and marriage certificates.

The death of an American or Canadian citizen, whether resident or tourist, needs to be reported to the Consulate so that the officers can issue a Consular Report of Death Abroad (the official U.S. death certificate for U.S. citizens who pass away overseas and the Canadian equivalent).   This document is necessary to settle legal and estate matters in the U.S.  and Canada.  In order to prepare this document, the Consulate will often need the next of kin to provide certain documents, such as a copy of the Mexican death certificate or United States passport.  A consular officer will explain to the next of kin what is needed in each case.

You will also want to make sure you have prepared your Mexican Will well in advance, and share it with loved ones to alleviate ambiguity in a stressful situation.

U.S. Consulates in Mexico

Canadian Consulates in Mexico

The Pacific coast of Mexico is rugged terrain falling into beautiful, and sometimes dangerous, beaches.  If the ocean is your bag, try one of the cities lining this coast of Mexico.

Mexico has nearly 5800 miles of coast line of which a little over 4500 miles are on the Pacific Coast.  Because of this, we cannot possibly include all the hidden treasures in this beautiful region of the country, but we want to name a few!  If you are adventurous enough to hop in a car and head South on Mexico’s Pacific Coast Highway, Highway 15 and 200, you can explore the fishing villages of  Rincon de Guayabitos, Sayulita, Barra de Navidad and Coastecomate on your way to Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta.

Although the Sierra Madre Del Sur mountain range on the Southern Pacific Coast (Oaxaca area), literally spills right into the ocean, the Central Pacific Coast also has the Sierra Madre  mountain range just a bit further away from the ocean, still offering striking ocean cliffs, hiking and bird watching!

Off shore islands near Mazatlan, including Isla de Chivos (Island of Goats), Isla de Venados (Deer Island) and Isla de Pajaros (Island of Birds), provide nature preserves and water sports such as kayaking, snorkeling and bird watching day trips!  Expect to sea seal colonies, sea turtles, schools of dolphins, rays, pelicans and many different species of bird life here!  El Faro Lighthouse, the highest lighthouse in the America’s, has guarded this area since 1571.  If you hike up to see it, be prepared to see some majestic views of Mazatlan and beyond!

There are some areas of the Pacific Ocean that are great for surfing, jet skiing, sport fishing, kite boarding and the like but are too dangerous to swim in.  Strong undertows, currents and large crashing waves are prevalent here, so watch for “No Swimming” signs all along the Pacific Coast.

Please read more about our featured Pacific Coast region and see if this area may be your Mexico!

Mazatlán

Average Cost of Living Rating: CClick here to view our directory of Mazatlán local resources Mazatlán is the second largest city in the state of Sinaloa. It was founded in 1531 by the Spaniards and local Indian settlers.  Prior to the arrival of the Spaniards the area was occupied primary by native Indians attributed to the abundant […]

Puerto Vallarta

Average Lifestyle Rating: B (range C- to A+)Click here to view our directory of Puerto Vallarta local resources Founded in 1851 (or 1859, depending on your source), prior to the 1960s, Puerto Vallarta was a small coastal village with ties to the mining industry of the Sierra Madres. For decades, its land properties were tied […]

Mazatlán is the second largest city in the state of Sinaloa. It was founded in 1531 by the Spaniards and local Indian settlers.  Prior to the arrival of the Spaniards the area was occupied primary by native Indians attributed to the abundant fresh water from rivers, excellent fishing and wild game in the area.

In the early 1830’s, a large group of German immigrants had settled in the area.  Their influence on Mazatlán’s culture manifested itself in many and diverse ways. These new citizens developed Mazatlán into a successful, commercial seaport bringing in equipment for the gold and silver mines in the area.  Three German immigrants established the local brewery, Cerveceria del Pacífico, in 1900.  And, “Banda,” the local music, shows a strong influence of Bavarian folk music.

Called the “Pearl of the Pacific,” Mazatlán is Mexico’s largest commercial port.  And is, in fact, the third largest Pacific seaport of the Americas, behind only Los Angeles and the Panama Canal.  It is a stop for many cruise ships, including those from all over the world. The harbor in Mazatlán is the meeting point for the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean. As a result, it is a natural fish trap which is why sports’ fishing is one of Mazatlán’s most popular pastimes.  Tourism and fishing are Mazatlán’s two main economic pillars. The city has many large and small beach resorts, and the second largest fishing fleet in Mexico.

Mazatlán is one of Mexico’s most appealing beach destinations. The city has upgraded and enhanced its downtown colonial area, and that on-going project has proven to be very beneficial for the tourist industry.  The result is a gorgeous, colonial pueblo viejo (old town) just a short walk from the 20+ kilometer stretch of glorious Pacific Ocean beach.  Mazatlán’s malecon is one of the longest in the world, with a boardwalk that parallels the beaches of Mazatlán for nearly twenty-one kilometers.  It has nine sections, and some have been refurbished and extended.  The city is also home to a coffee factory and two electric power plants.

Mazatlán enjoys the benefits of a modern transportation infrastructure and is very easy to get to.  There is a four-lane highway to the state capital, Culiacán.  The excellent interstate bus system will get you from Mazatlán to any place in Mexico. There is a regular “car ferry” that runs between Mazatlán and the city of La Paz on the eastern coast of the southern Baja peninsula. And, the General Rafael Buelna International Airport (MZT) is truly “international” with major airlines flying to and from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Phoenix, Denver, Houston, Dallas, Minneapolis, Seattle, Mexico City, Guadalajara, La Paz and San Jose del Cabo, Tijuana, British Columbia, Puerto Vallarta, Vancouver and Calgary.  In addition, it offers expanded service during the high tourist season.

The climate of Mazatlán is “transitional tropical wet/dry” with the typical Mexican dry season in the winter.  Mazatlán actually sits at the same latitude as Honolulu.  However, because it has an area of semi-arid climate to the north, the dry season tends to be longer and drier than other areas with the same transitional tropical classification. The wet season (July to September) is short, but very rainy and humid.  Temperatures in the summer average 89.6 degrees F. and in the winter 70.3 degrees.

Since it’s a major port,Mazatlán is able to offer a smorgasbord of shopping possibilities. In addition to the usual array of big box department stores, Walmart, Sam’s, Home Depot, Office Depot, Office Max, Sanborns and Soriana, there are many specialty food, furniture and home decorating outlets. The new mall, Marina Mazatlán, due to open in November 2012, will be anchored by Liverpool and Walmart.  The established shopping mall, La Gran Plaza Mall, is sustained by one of the ubiquitous Mega department stores.

However, Mazatlán offers shopping of a more exotic nature, too.  At the Juarez Market, also known as the “Sunday Flea Market,” you’ll find shopping that covers many of the streets that are typically used by the daily produce market. It is open only on Sunday mornings, and should be visited, if only for the experience. The rest of the week, the Mercado del Centro in Old Mazatlán presents another kind of shopping. Here you’ll find a plethora of open stall vendors with everything from fresh cooked dishes to shoes and clothing to local crafts, as well as a huge number of tiny shops where you can find virtually anything you want.  However, most people agree that the best all-around shopping in Mazatlán is found in La Zona Dorada (The Golden Zone) where you can find the best selection of handcrafts from all over Mexico at the Mazatlán Arts and Crafts Center. And, the nearby Sea Shell City is exactly what the name implies – they sell shell-covered decorative items from the tacky to the magnificent.

Housing is plentiful and very reasonable in the “Pearl of the Pacific.”  You can build your own home, purchase a modern condo, buy one of the refurbished colonials, buy a colonial and refurbish it yourself, or “take Mazatlán for a test drive” by leasing one of the many rentals available.  currently, there is a one-bedroom, one-bath home on the market for under $9,000 (really!!).  There are many nice, furnished, and unfurnished, homes, condos and apartments available in the $450-$900 per month rent range, but you can also find high-priced luxury homes for rent.

Medical care is another big plus in Mazatlán.  A modern, internationally-certified, 77-bed hospital, the Atlantic Health International Hospital (SHARP), covers over 130,000 square feet and includes facilities for pediatric medicine and surgery, angiology, cardiology, plastic surgery of all kinds, gastroenterology, geriatrics, gynecology and obstetrics, neonatology, neurology, ophthalmology, psychiatry, radiology, angioplasty, many surgical specialties and much more.  It offers emergency services, a laboratory clinic, a blood bank, intensive-care units for infants, children and adults, a dialysis unit, physical rehabilitation, outpatient facilities, and more.  SHARP treats many foreign patients, has a medical tourism unit and works closely with “Tourist Health Care” which processes paperwork for patients with medical insurance from other countries. In addition to covering more than 35 medical specialties, the hospital states that all procedures and surgeries are performed by US board-certified personnel with active medical practices in the United States.

There are two more private hospitals that are fully equipped and staffed: Clinica del Mar, and Divina Providencia. The public hospitals in the city are the Centro de Salud Regional in Colonia Juarez and the IMSS Hospital, and of course, the Cruz Roja (The Red Cross) is on the medical agenda.

Sprinkled around the city are clinics of varying size which offer emergency, specialty and general medical services, such as Clinica Balboa, La Marina Medical Center, Salud Digna, Millenium Torre Medica, Clinica Siglo XXI and many others.  Some of the clinics accept credit cards and some US and international medical insurance plans.  Needless to say, there are many doctors supporting the hospital and clinic system, some of whom are US certified, and many who are English-speaking.

As a retirement destination, you simply could not ask for a place more replete with answers to an ex-pat’s needs.  It has a modern, up-to-date infrastructure, a beautiful colonial center, a first-class medical system, plentiful housing, an amazing beachfront and shopping opportunities at all levels – from toothpaste to the fresh produce and seafood that makes Mexico such a wonderful place to live.  Who could ask for anything more?

Founded in 1851 (or 1859, depending on your source), prior to the 1960s, Puerto Vallarta was a small coastal village with ties to the mining industry of the Sierra Madres. For decades, its land properties were tied up in legal disputes that required rulings by the Mexican government, with no resolution in sight. Even its historical and archaeological value was limited since there are no major “ruins” in the vicinity. However, in the 1960-70s, three unrelated things happened that moved Puerto Vallarta to the pathway of becoming a major resort.

American director, John Huston, filmed his 1963 film “The Night of the Iguana” just south of Puerto Vallarta. During the filming, the US media gave extensive coverage to the film’s co-stars’ scandalous love affair, as well as covering the in-fighting between director Huston and the stars. The publicity helped put Puerto Vallarta on the map for US tourists.

In 1968, the government elevated the municipality to the status of  “city.” This status change reflected the interest of the federal and state governments in developing the city as an international resort destination. During this time, the government also invested in the development of transportation and municipal infrastructure for the city, making Puerto Vallarta easily accessible by air and ground for the first time, and bringing about its first tourist boom in the late 60s and early 70s. The infrastructure of Puerto Vallarta has continued to improve in the interim, and now includes a maritime terminal, culture and art venues and high-tech utilities such as cable TV and high-speed internet, as well as city-supported utilities, a good road/highway system and an international airport.

Since the communal status of the land originally appropriated from the “Union en Cuale” Mining Company could not be resolved, it had stifled development in the town for the first seventy years of the 20th century. Finally, in 1973, the government established the Vallarta Land Trust to sell the land within the current city limits, and use the proceeds to develop the city’s infrastructure. The land and development freeze was finally broken.

Puerto Vallarta lies on a narrow coastal plain at the foot of the Sierra Madres. This beach resort has become home to several hundreds of North Americans who have chosen it as their retirement home. Puerto Vallarta has near-perfect weather year-round with an average daily temperature of 73 degrees F. from November to May with virtually no rain, and an average summer temperatures of 87 degrees F. with cooling rain showers almost every evening.

Vallarta boasts an international airport, Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport (PVR). PVR offers daily flights via the major US and Canadian airlines into the major hubs of the US and Canada. It is about a 3-hour flight from Los Angeles and around 5 hours, or a little more, from most major US and Canadian cities. During “high” season (July-August and November-May), the airlines expand daily schedules to include more US and Canadian cities, and additional cities within Mexico.

Hospital Cornerstone: a new state-of-the-art, bi-lingual “Level IV” Trauma Center; San Javier Marina Hospital: large and fully equipped with the latest technology; Hospital CMQ: smaller with 14 private rooms and a trauma center; and Medasist Hospital: with an emergency room, Intensive Care Unit, laboratory, private suites, new surgery suites, CAT scan and radiology department, all provide for Puerto Vallarta’s hospital needs. There is also a full-service holistic medicine center, the Organic Holistic Medicine which offers acupuncture, magnetic fields, biological dentistry, chelation Therapies, Q2, colon cleansing, etc. Numerous clinics, Servicio Medico de la Bahia, Clínica Hospital del ISSSTE, Clínica Unidad de Medicina Familiar, and Clínica No. 42, among others, and a strong network of doctors and dentists who provide the supporting framework round out the excellent PV medical system.

Real estate, despite PV’s growing popularity as a retirement mecca, has remained affordable. Houses can be purchased for as little as $80,000 all the way up to a very luxurious $600,000 and more. But, the average home price is in the $200,000 range. For those who want to “try before they buy,” the average rental for a nice two bedroom is in the $1200-$1500 per month area. But, for the careful (or lucky) shopper, there are “good buys” to be had at $500-600 per month and, occasionally, less. Utilities are typically Mexican – around $10-15 for gas and water each month while cable, phone and electricity depend on your usage/plan, but normally run 50% or less of what you’ve been paying north of the border.

There are four malls in Puerto Vallarta – Paradise Plaza, Plaza Caracol, Plaza Marina, and the smaller Plaza Neptuno with its fine home furnishing and clothing boutiques. Anchoring the malls are Liverpool, LANS, Soriana and Mega department stores. Get your groceries and house ware items at Gigante Supermercado – a Mexican take on Walmart, a real giant Walmart, Ley Supermarket, Costco or Sams.

The all-time favorites for bargains, novelty, crafts or that item you just can’t live without are the “Río Cuale Flea Market” and “Unique Consignment.” The Flea Market is an large number of open-faced stalls under one roof. Even if you don’t buy anything, you need to go by for the fun of seeing it. Unique Consignment is, as the title suggests, a consignment store where you can find great bargains in antiques, art, decorative items for your home, unique furniture designs and much more.

Puerto Vallarta also has a plethora of great restaurants and local eating establishments where you can eat out for a “song,” or treat yourself to a full-course epicurean meal.

Why not visit Puerto Vallarta and its beautiful surroundings? You may find, like many others, that you “can never go home again.”

Sombreros and tequila may be what first comes to mind when we think of Mexico, but it’s the colorful colonial cities which are the foundation of contemporary Mexican culture and in the highland hub of San Cristóbal de las Casas, you’ll find its beating heart.

Located in the southwestern state of Chiapis, it’s in the central plateau of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas and close to the geographicalcenter of the state.  San Cristóbal sits at 2200 meters elevation, so expect cool nights, particularly from November to April, and rain. Some people experience altitude sickness – tiredness and mild flu-like symptoms at such heights, so it’s is a good idea to plan to spend, at least, four nights so that you’ll have two full days for cruising the city, and another day to visit nearby communities.

Though it’s now peaceful, San Cristóbal’s history is replete with confrontation.  Often manifested as episodes of extreme repression by the colonizers with concomitant resistance by the indigenous natives.  The most recent political storm erupted in January 1994, when the masked members of the Zapatista National Liberation Army (EZLN), a leftist guerrilla movement, stampeded the city and seized control of government buildings. They demanded rights for the indigenous, a battle cry that has resonated since the arrival of the Spanish.  The Mexican Army soon forced them back into the mountains.

The city was founded as state capital in 1528 by Diego de los Mazariegos, following a brutal battle with the dominant Maya group, the Chiapa, who fought with a passion to protect their autonomy.  Its original name was “Villareal de Chiapa de los Españoles,” though it was renamed “San Cristóbal de las Casas,” in honor of Bartolome de las Casas, the first Bishop of Chiapas, who spent 50 years fighting for the rights of the native Maya. As far as the colonial elite of San Cristóbal were concerned, however, the native Maya would receive no rights or even consideration as human beings.  The colonists set to work breaking the spirit of the indigenous natives, enslaving them in a network of plantations known as the encomienda. The Spanish colonists grew rich harvesting wheat and coffee, while the Maya suffered from famine and diseases which decimated their population.  However, by the time of Mexican Independence in 1821, San Cristóbal was no longer a seat of prosperity.  It had been undermined by its highland location, which isolated it as the lowlands grew wealthier from agriculture.  It was replaced by Tuxtla Gutierrez as state capital.  And, it remained in obscurity until the 1970s, when it was discovered by the tourist industry.

While in San Cristóbal, the following are some of the places you do not want to miss visiting:

El Andador : The main thoroughfare, known informally as “El Andador,” cuts through the core of the city, and is the place to start your exploration.  It’s a pedestrian walkway, stretching from the south on “Avenida Miguel Hidalgo,” through the main plaza, and north along “Avenida 20 de Noviembre,” to Santo Domingo church.  It’s flanked with many shops, galleries, restaurants and bars and you’ll likely spend most of a day wandering up and down its ten block length.

El Zócalo: (or, the main plaza) is the pulse of San Cristóbal. By day, it’s humming with workers, vendors and tourists while, at night, it’s the heart of the city’s night life with live bands.  It is particularly picturesque at sunset when the mustard yellow facade of La Catedral de San Cristóbal radiates like a beacon in a sea of mountain peaks.

El Museo Na Bolom: If you only visit one museum, it must be El Museo Na Bolom ($3 US, 10 am – 7 pm daily). Found  33 Avenida Vicente Guerrero, this former home of Danish archaeologist, Frans Blom, and his wife, photographer Gertrude Duby-Blom is an elegant former monastery, complete with stone floors, courtyards and a garden.  The Bloms occupied it from the 1950s to the 1980s. The couple is renowned for their contribution to the study and protection of the Lacandón rainforest in eastern Chiapas, and among the exhibits is a rare collection of photographs taken by Gertrude of the Lacandón Maya, who lived in almost complete isolation until the 1990s.

Amber Museum: ($2 US, 10 am – 2 pm; 4 pm – 7 pm Tuesday to Sunday) four blocks west of El Zócalo, is another point of interest.  It features a small gallery of exquisite amber sculptures.  Chiapas is the only region in Mexico where amber is found.

Templo and Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo de Guzman: Looming above the artisan market north of El Zócalo is possibly one of Mexico’s most splendid churches.  Its baroque details and ornate façade, richly decorated with carvings and columns, create an intriguing contrast with the colorful motifs of indigenous textiles being sold below.  In the former monastery, there is a showroom of Sna Jolobil (9 am – 2 pm; 4 pm – 6 pm Monday to Saturday), a Mayan weavers’ co-operative renowned for its craftsmanship.  Prices range from a few dollars up to a couple of thousand.

TierrAdentro: On “Real de Guadalupe,” this mercado is run by Zapatista affiliates, an obvious favorite of political lefties, and people keen on Che Guevara t-shirts.  It’s in a large indoor courtyard surrounded by stalls selling crafts, memorabilia with the EZLN logo and, if you’re seriously interested, military boots.  It frequently hosts interesting events. The cuisine is Mexican and the dishes tasty and inexpensive.

For a moderately sized city nestled in the mountains of western Mexico, San Cristóbal has a surprisingly eclectic collection of restaurants and bistros.  Cuisine options range from basic Mayan fare to Mexican street food, Argentinean steaks, and even Thai curries.  For a splurge dinner, try El Argentino, on “Guadalupe.”  It’s a steakhouse offering delectable cuts of meats, but at premium prices.

Nightlife is equally diverse. If you’re seeking jazz worthy of New Orleans, you’ll like Dada Club Jazz Bar & Cafe on Avenida Insurgentes, around the corner from the Santo Domingo church.  Each night the stage is rocked by four or five bands.  It’s packed by 11 pm, so arrive early if you want a good spot.  Beer is reasonably priced around $2 USD, and there’s a menu of appetizers and small plate meals.  Alternatively, La Viña de Bacco on Guadalupe is an intimate wine bar where you can unwind and people-watch with a soothing cup of “mold” wine.  Prices start from around $4 USD.

For a place to stay, Hotel Parador Margarita on Avenida Felipe Flores provides good value.  It has large comfortable rooms that are set around a lovely garden.  But, it’s the elegant bathrooms with showers boasting hot water (24/7) and good water pressure that you will appreciate most.  Doubles are $65 USD.

If you’re coming from the west through Tuxtla Gutiérrez, take Federal Highway 190 directly to San Cristóbal.  From Villahermosa in Tabasco, Carreterra Federal 195 will get you there in less than 4 hours. From Palenque, travel south through the mountains on the “Ocosingo-Palenque Highway” (Carreterra Federal 199) to Ocosingo.  At Ocosingo, Highway 199 turns west for 86 kilometers where it ends at Carreterra Federal 190. Turn right (north) at this intersection – San Cristóbal de las Casas is 9 km.  The closest airport is in the state capital, Tuxtla Gutiérrez.

When you drive through Xico Viejo, Veracruz, a small town 25 miles from Xalapa, you would swear you had stepped back in time and into an “John Wayne western.  The narrow streets are tough to navigate with horses and burros tied to hitching posts along both sides. The trucks you see are reminiscent of small-town Anywhere, 60 years ago. There are caballeros with cigarettes hanging from their mouths, and a sombrero pulled down so low you can barely see their eyes watching your every move.  You can easily imagine them saying (if they spoke English), “You ain’t from around here, are ya?”

I am the only non-Mexican for miles so the stares and pointing almost becomes a frenzy in this tiny pueblo. Xico is known to have witches at night that chase young lovers. Maybe my wild red hair was thought to belong to a witch that came out a little early.

We were lucky to have a wonderful tour guide, a sister of R2’s amigo.  She was happy to show off the region and we drove to the spectacular, Cascada de Texolo waterfalls, where the 1984 Michael Douglas and Kathleen Turner movie, Romancing the Stone, was filmed.

On route, we navigated winding roads with our windows open to savor the aroma of the coffee beans growing in the region.  Along the way, little children would try to entice us to buy their handmade trinkets, or their homemade coffee liquor, similar to Kuala.

We were impressed at the height and beauty of the waterfalls.  R2 and I were somewhat apprehensive to cross the bridge that would take us to the site.  It had been there since the early 1900s and looked like it had missed the last 50 years of structural maintenance. Fortunately, we decided to throw our fates to the wind, and as a result, hiked around the falls for a few hours.  At one point, we joined the locals and enjoyed splashing around in the cool stream under one of the smaller waterfalls.

There was only one restaurant in the area and you had to ascend even higher to reach this hidden gem.  We all wondered how they managed to supply provisions to the top of the mountain since it was not accessible by a motorized vehicle. The only explanation was burros laden with packs on their backs. We didn’t head to that eatery, though, because our guide had other plans for us.  She recommended a trout farm far up in the mountains that served fresh fish, cooked to your liking.

The wonderful Nissan “ghetto” rental navigated pot holes, boulders and steep cliffs like a trooper.  We followed a 1970s rusted beetle slowly up the mountain not sure we would complete this trek with all our hubcaps. We passed rustic haciendas and rancheros on their horses, but the best thing we passed was a small donkey tied to the fence that pointed us in the right direction.  As if by some mind-force he showed us the way to the farm but not with his eyes, his legs, or even his tail, for that matter.  We will refer to his skills as “Periscope Directions.” His periscope literally stood at full attention, shifted to the left and seemed to say to us, “Continue that way, weary travelers.”  While Chelli didn’t speak any English, we all knew what the donkey was telling us and our stomachs ached with laughter.

We finally reached the trout farm, and my comfort level flew out the window.  The restaurant was a small building with smoke billowing from the kitchen.  It was really for locals who had made the trip, with or without the burrito’s help, but that has never stopped us before.

The trout were crowded in small streams so they were easy pickings for lunch. The only fishermen were two-nine year old boys that were catching the fish with a net, plopping them on a bloodied table and bashing their brains out.  They gutted the fish, threw the innards to the dogs and ran the pieces to their mama in the restaurant.  R2 kept stressing, “Don’t look.” He is a lover of nearly alive sashimi so the fish frenzy didn’t seem to bother him in the least.

As R2 and our guide snacked on fried fish tails and the occasional eyeball, I wondered where the nearest mercado was for a bag of papitas and a cool cervesa. You can take the city slicker outta the city, but you can’t take the city outta this Canadian gal!

Read more about Layna’s world travels at http://laynainasia.blogspot.com

We got a late start from Tulum for our getaway weekend to Uxmal.  The estimated drive time was about 4.5 hours and we were making good time as we passed through Valladolid.  As we started out of Valladolid, the sun had just set on an unseasonably cool day at the end of April on the Yucatan Peninsula.  We had the windows rolled down, and could hear the sounds of Howler monkeys calling out to their friends among the jungle canopy.  What an adventure this was already!

We traveled along for another few hours, had a few near-miss turns, and what began as an exciting adventure at dusk turned into a dark night of two-lane roads and unfamiliar places.  We were close to our destination, but the map I wished I hadn’t forgotten had worked its way up the priority ladder to “critical loss.”

At this point, it was almost midnight, and we decided to give up on finding the hotel near Uxmal where we had reservations.  We had driven through the town of Ticul on the way, and recalled seeing some places to stay there.  So, we drove back, found a place with a pool and free breakfast, and pulled into the driveway.  Imagine our shock in finding out that this was, in fact, the very accomodations we had reserved!!

Valerie, the owner/manager, was standing outside to greet us at “The Pickled Onion,” and we all had a good laugh about the “perdido” (lost) being found.  We had driven by the hotel, at least, twice; it was late and dark; and I had forgotten the map . . . and yet, when all else had failed, I pulled right into the driveway – what can I say?  Valerie had had us set up for a late arrival – but, not for that late!

We settled in for a great night of much needed rest.  The next morning, after finishing a wonderful breakfast, we headed out for a day at the ruins of Uxmal and the Cacoa Museum and Plantation.  Both tours are educational, awe-inspiring and well-worth the trip.  Personally, I found the ruins of Uxmal to be more impressive than Chichen Itza.

At the Cacoa Plantation, we learned a great deal about chocolate – one of my favorite subjects – and gained insight into the daily lives of the average Maya family.  When you visit most ruins, you hear about royalty, the grand ceremonies and the significance of the structures in governing, but seldom does anything you see figure into the life of the average Mayan citizen.  Their connection with the land, and the harmony in which they lived with it, is inspiring.  Their tools, and how they used native plants in their everyday lives, demonstrate their intimacy with and knowledge of the land.

We also learned some really interesting stuff about “Cacoa,” or the source of chocolate. The Cacoa fruit which contains the beans used to make cacoa, was originally discovered in Northern Brazil but migrated north with the spread of the Maya people over 2000 years ago.  It was the Spaniards bringing the beans back to Europe from the Yucatan in the 1500s that gave birth to the chocolate we enjoy today.

The Pickled Onion B and B was another educational, albeit relaxing, comfortable, even sensual experience.  They use the traditional Mayan style cabanas – rectangular with rounded corners and the beautiful, thatched roofs that keep the cabanas cool.  The room we stayed in was the newest, and was nicely furnished with a mini-fridge, coffee-maker and sitting area.  No internet and no TV for the weekend provided a nice change of pace. It’s a very peaceful, quiet spot, and we sat in front of the cabana on several occasions just to listen to the jungle and enjoy the beautiful garden.

We loved the garden and its paths including the small labyrinth maze with a lime tree in the middle.  We had a fantastic dinner on-site in the charmingly quaint restaurant.  The menu had many entrees using local ingredients, and some interesting fusions that were delicious.  Try the meatballs with raisins and fresh mint . . . it’s amazing!

Valerie is a fantastic host, excellent massage therapist and we so enjoyed the time we spent with her.  This is a trip, and accomodations, that we highly recommend. It is a combination of the perfect place to unplug and wind down, coupled with an interesting and unusual take on the Mayan culture!

Check out the short video below to see some of the highlights of the trip.

by Ron Burdine

After five days of driving from Denver, Colorado to Tulum, Mexico, I have arrived! What follows is a recap of the high and low-lights of an interesting drive through a beautiful country.

DAY 1: We (my brother-in-law, Rich, and I) left Denver at about 6 pm, and nearly made it to Amarillo, Texas.

DAY 2: The second day, our goal was Laredo, and the plan was to spend the night there.  We made it around 11 pm.  We stayed on the Texas side of the border, and double-checked the paperwork for crossing the following morning.

DAY 3:  We stopped off early before our crossing to get our Mexican auto insurance , driver added, and driver change was made as common sense dictated that Rich should do most of the driving.  Due to the jam-packed car, and the resultant inability to move the passenger seat back, Rich’s 6’ 5” frame forced his knees into the glove compartment.  If the airbags had deployed, he would have likely have ended up with a broken neck.  He had made no comment about it until three hours into the trip.  At that point, he drolly observed that we may have to hire a winch to pull him from the car as his knees were starting to lock up.

The entry into Mexico went much smoother than expected – a nice surprise!  The planning and paperwork done in advance proved to be a big help, as did the multiple copies I had of everything.

Right out of the chute, we got in the wrong line, but were directed to follow the numbered steps/lines 1-4.  Naturally, we went right to Line 4, bypassing the first three.  Line 1, show your tourist paperwork.  Line 2, copies.  We never figured out what the purpose of line 3 was – other than to tell you to go to 4.  Line 4, show your vehicle paperwork.

Jammed into the back of the car with the remainder of our disposed of belongings was my faithful dog, Yeller. Yeller was a big feller and this seemed to dissuade the border authorities of the necessity of checking to see if what we said we had in “those” boxes matched what was actually there.  Knowing that the big dog came out with the boxes, conferred complete veracity to our customs list as far as they were concerned.

And so, we crossed the border and started down our first Mexican highway to Monterey – number one of many toll roads.  We were asked to pull over at the 17 mile checkpoint where several very serious 19 year-old kids, wearing camouflage and wielding machine guns, proceeded to inspect the car.  They take customs inspections seriously in Mexico.  But, as it turned out, they never asked us to unpack much of anything, and they definitely did not want to see anything from the back that would require an off-load of “ol’ Yeller.”  Rich and I were both excited to clear that hurdle after hearing of three-day long border crossings caused by lack of paperwork, and/or the right permits.  High five – we were in!!

The road to Monterey was great – a nice four-lane toll road.  But, be aware that if you ever make the drive, you need to have lots of cash for the tolls.  We spent over $200 (and it’s up to $300 today) for the toll roads – you’d think they’d be paved in gold!

The problem with much of the Mexican highway system is that no one planned for the kind of traffic that a highway brings in, so they go right through the middle of town, and they get narrower as they go – like a funnel.  We made great time to Monterey, but once there, simply getting through the city took an hour and a half.  And, the traffic was brutal; bumper-to-bumper, with people randomly crossing the street.  Between trying not to get hit, trying not to hit pedestrians and making sure we were still on the right road, it was the epitome of a very stressful experience.

Our first wrong turn was made just southeast of Cuidad Victoria while trying to take a shortcut recommended by someone who has made the drive several times.  We wound up on a really cool road that wound its way through some rural areas, and ended up costing us about three hours.  But, it was so picturesque that we didn’t mind the detour. However, finding a place to stay overnight in the “middle of nowhere” was a challenge.

We finally found a Pemex station about the time it got dark, but the nearest hotel was an hour farther down the road.

For the most part, we followed the rule of not driving at night.  When we told a local we were thinking about trying to make Tampico that night, he strongly advised against it because of banditos on the two lane roads after dark.  As a result, we ended up in a charming little town called Aldama. We got a cheap, clean room, and ate tacos at the palapa on the corner . . . $11 bucks for the two of us, including the tip, and it was great food!!

DAY 4: For some reason, Rich and I had the idea that we could make Chetumal today, albeit with a late arrival, followed by a leisurely day driving up the Caribbean coast on Sunday. In hindsight, this almost looks delusional.  After getting to Tampico on a two-lane highway which had been a pretty good road, we re-entered the funnel and spent an hour or trying to get through it.  We finally made it through, found the right road and paid our toll.

Note to self:  Just because you pay a high road toll does not mean the road is good!!  This was to be our first experience with a really bad Mexican road.  It began, initially, with two lanes, but shortly thereafter culled itself into a single lane with random potholes of all sizes everywhere.  After a couple hundred miles of this, we finally made it to Tuxpan – also known as the “vortex.”  Here, we cleverly avoided “Centro” believing we had found the bypass, but ended up doing a complete loop of the city which brought us back to our starting point.  Wheee . . . that was fun!

Eventually, we found the road to Veracruz, a great road for almost the entire first half, but which then disintegrated into a construction and pothole-ridden obstacle course – a condition that was rapidly becoming the norm for the second half of our trip.

Veracruz was surprisingly easy to get through.  They actually put the highway around the main part of town. Tres unique!!  Our working hypothesis was to get to the south end of Veracruz, find a hotel and call it a night – it was getting dark.  We were cruising once again, had a nice four-lane highway and were making good time.  But, where were the hotels?!!  No exits,  just open highway at night.  We drove on (there were no other clear options at this point) hoping to see some sign of life, and after only 70 miles, spied a sign indicating a major junction and a Pemex coming up.  Excellent!!  Another concern was that the fuel was running low.  We pulled in and found the Pemex closed!!  So, here we would spend the night. Okay, we’re flexible.  Unfortunately, there were only two hotels and neither was a four-star option, or any star, for that matter.  We chose what appeared to be the better of the two, and again, ate with the local roadside taco vendor – once again getting good food at a bargain price.

The hotel was another story altogether.  We both slept in our clothes and skipped showers in the morning for sanitary reasons – those being that we were better off grubby than compromising our immune systems.  It took me a mere three hours that night to fall asleep because I kept picturing clearly in my mind what showed murkily below the see-through sheets.  I just kept telling myself, “You’re camping!!  You’re just camping.  You’ve done it before.  You have slept in the dirt.  Relax . . .”  Yeah, right!  We were so thankful to get back in the car that morning that we got a very early start!  Even Yeller seemed “excited” to get back into the kennel!  It had been a really rough night.

DAY 5:  Because of our early start, light traffic and, once again, good roads, we made great time and Chetumal was finally in sight.  We made it to the Chetumal by-pass around 8 pm, and decided to stay in Bacalar rather than trying the drive at night. Working hypothesis adjustment #36 – Monday would be the casual drive day.

We found a cabana-type place to stay with an American woman host who was quite the raconteur.  Luckily, she had been drinking that night and we were able to convince her that Yeller was a good risk.  He loved the place which was right on the beautiful Bacalar lagoon.

DAY 6:  We made an out-of-the-way stop at Mahahual, to see the damage done by hurricane Dean.  Mother Nature can be intimidating, and occasionally tweaks the human psyche regarding the importance and power of humans on planet Earth.  Dean was one of her tweaks.  It is very humbling to see two steel beams twisted like pretzels and bowed to the ground.

However, since humans are not given to humility for extended periods of time, we soldiered on and made Tulum about 1:30 pm.  Awl Right!!!  Yessssss!  Hooray!  Whoot, whoot!!  We did it!  High five!  Who’s da man, I mean, men?!!

We capped the trip by immediately heading to the beach to pay homage to Mother Nature!